Montenegro Trip Journal from July 19 to 22, 2006

Last updated September 10, 2006.  To proceed to the Montenegro Pictures.

Country: Montenegro

Duration: July 19 to 22, 2006

Distance Traveled in the Country:  ~ 600 km

Memorable Impressions of the Country:  Although small in size it has some of the prettiest landscapes we have seen.  Montenegro has ragged mountains, deep canyons, pretty rivers and blue-green lakes that butt up against the Serbian border.  Old walled towns with red tiled roof houses and ancient churches at the base of mountains which plummet into the Adriatic Sea. As it is July, we can't forget to mention the thousands of bodies occupying every inch of available beach front property. 

Gasoline Cost: approx. $1.55CDN/litre for 95 Octane

Camping Cost:  average $16.00CDN/night.

Food & Drink Cost: Comparable to Greece.

Exchange Rate: 1 Euro = $1.40CDN

July 19, 2006.  Approx. 15 cars line up at the Montenegro border crossing.  The border guard takes everyone's passport and tells us to park in the adjacent parking lot as he disappears into the building.  After about 20 minutes he returns and calls out my name.  That's it we are in Montenegro.  The roads instantly improve to better pavement, but still very narrow. From the border crossing at Bozaj, we head to Podgorica. Our original plan was to head along the coast, but the night before we added an extra day of stay in Montenegro to our schedule and are now detouring into the Durmitor National Park via a 400km loop.  One of the highlights of Montenegro.  From Podgorica the road follows the narrow Moraca Canyon and river.  The water of the river is so blue and clear compared to the barren backdrop of the Canyon.  The view is amazing as we climb a 1000m mountain pass before Kolasin and continue to twist our way to Mojkovac.  Here we turn off the main highway and into the Durmitor National Park.  Ragged Mountains surround us on our journey along the most amazing blue river with the occasional waterfall making us stop in awe.  This is Canadian Rockies Country.  We have missed the mountains and blue lakes of Alberta.  At Durdevica Tara, a huge old impressive bridge spans across the Tara Canyon. We arrive in Zabljak mid-afternoon and decide to stay the night at the Ivan-do Campground for 4.5 Euro/night.  The campground is located up-hill from the entrance to the National Park at 1465m elevation and with direct view of the 2287m Meded Mountain and 2523m Bobotov Kuk Mountain.  Temperatures are for once bearable. Durmitor National Park has been on the list of UNESCO World Heritage of National Resources since 1980, due to its unique geological, hydrological and biological phenomenon, fulfilling thus three important conditions for such classification. The park consists of 5 canyons, 18 lakes and 49 peaks over 2000m covering an area of 390 square km.  After setting up the tent, which looked more like the base camp at Mt. Everest with 20 different tents scattered all over the field, we head into the park (1 Euro Admission/person).  The path leads to the Crno Jezero (Black Lake) and the trees open up to a magnificent view of the lake and mountains.  Black Lake is an interesting hydro-geographical phenomenon, known as bifurcation.  The waters of the lakes under favorable hydrological conditions run at the same time into two different river flows. Setting out to walk around Black Lake, we take a wrong turn and hike up the base of Meded Mountain.  As we reach the tree line and the occasional snow, we decide to head back.  Mike introduces me to trail running and we run the 4km return in no time.  Totally amazed at the good shape we are in.  It looks like I am hooked now on trail running.  Back at the campsite, Goran, a 25-year old Montenegrin shows up on his home built 250cc 2-stroke chopper with orange and yellow flames painted on the tank.  We had met him earlier in the town square in Zabljak.  He was like a little kid showing us his pride and joy.  He tells us that he spent one week in jail, because he was stopped by the police riding without a license and registration of the motorcycle.  It will be hard to register the motorcycle since it is a home-made frame. 

July 20, 2006.  After a cool night in the mountains, we take a different route back to Podgorica.  Leaving Zabljak south bound to Niksic the road is single lane, covered with potholes and corner after corner.  The signage on intersections is poor and we take two wrong turns, luckily with the help of the GPS and the locals, we always realize our mistake within a few kilometers. The rule is "the road that looks the worst is the right way :)". With a breakfast stop and the many picture opportunities we take 3hours from Zabljak to Niksic (100km stretch).  In the 3 hours we maybe meet 10 cars.  20km past Niksic, 900m above the Zeta valley below, located on the side of a cliff lies the Ostrog Monastery.  There is no warning to the condition of the 7km road leading up the Monastery.  It makes for an interesting ride of steep switchbacks, smelly clutches and heart-stopping drop-offs.  The monastery was built out of two (2) caves in 1665.  Admission is free.  A warning there are 100's of religious pilgrims.  Standing in line to enter what we thought was the monastery, we actually stand in line to enter the room with the remains of Archbishop Vasilije Jovanovic.  Beside the open coffin stands a bearded monk holding a large cross.  Both Mike and I kiss the cross and then bend our head inside the coffin to show our respect.  Then I bang my head on the exit door as it is built for 1.2m tall people.  This definitely has been one of the more bizarre things we have done.  We return to the main road and turn toward Cetinje in Podgorica.  Approx. 7km before Cetinje we take the turn off signed as Rijeka Crnojevica.  What an experience, the only way I can describe this road is a paved overgrown trail as wide as our motorcycles.  We both stop and look at each other with a question mark and decide to keep on going.  After all it is an adventure.  After 2kms the road reaches the descent point and an amazing view of the tail end of Lake Skadar and the sweeping double-back bend that the lake takes around a mountain spur.  In the village of Rijeka Crnojevica is the most unusual oldish four-arch pedestrian bridge.  Children play in the river and jump off the bridge.  The houses and bridge mirror in the blue-green calm water for magical pictures.  Not so magical is the temperature, as we are dripping with sweat in our gear.  Back to the main road, we turn at Cetinje and descend into Budva.  The view of the Adriatic Sea, the pretty little Island of Sveti Stefan and the old town of Budva with its red roof houses in the late afternoon sun is spectacular.  We set up camp for two (2) nights at the Autocamp located in the middle of Boreti town for 15.50 Euro a night.  The facilities are very run down, but all the campgrounds along the coast are packed with summer vacationers. We take what we can get. After a shower we stroll along the beach and have a 4 Euro large pizza.

July 21, 2006.  We just realize (6 days late) that we gained an hour time entering Albania.  At 7:30am we ride to the old walled town (Stari Grad) of Budva and walk the empty cobble stoned street (too early for most tourists to be active).  The old town was leveled twice in 1979 by an earthquake and since has been rebuilt a bit too perfect for our liking.  The citadel (admission 1 Euro/person) is within the old walls and houses a interesting library of the countries history and models of famous ancient ships like the Mayflower and the Santa Maria. Approx. 25km north along the coastline lies the picturesque Stari Grad (Old Town) of Kotor.  Pretty red roof houses and ancient churches, surrounded by a fortified wall are nestled at the head of southern Europe's deepest fjord.  High mountains rise behind the town and we descend into Kotor via hairpin bends with a stunning view ever so rewarding.  The old town of Kotor has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site and is wonderful to walk through.  After strolling the streets we insanely decide to hike up the million steps to the old fortification on the mountainside mid-day.  Not a problem for Mr. 5-times Ironman competitor, whereas I was red like a tomato. Temperatures have been unbelievably hot since we entered Albania and seem to stay this way all along the coast as we head north.  We only return to the campsite to change into our swim suits and then hit the waters of Budva with our snorkel gear.  The beaches are packed with people, something we haven't seen on our trip. 

July 22, 2006.  With a feeling of accomplishment that we saw as much as possible in three (3) days of Montenegro we are back in the saddle heading for Croatia.  Instead of going around the fjord of Kotor a ferry takes us straight across (1.50 Euro per bike).  Traffic is brutal and posted speed limits no better.  Passing another pretty walled town, Herceg Novi we arrive at the border.  No exit stamp from Montenegro, just a quick look at the passports and we are in the line up to enter Croatia.

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