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Our Route through MOROCCO. Covered approx. 5,200km on the motorcycles. |
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June 18, 2008. We cross into Morocco from Mauritania at the Al-Gargara. 2300km this Milestone indicates. |
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The WESTERN SAHARA has lots of land mines... |
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...and therefore it is important to keep to the main route. |
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After one of our longest border crossings of (3) hours we are finally in Morocco. |
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327km later we arrive in Dakhla. To windy to set up the tent we stay in this hut at the Centre Surf Extreme. |
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June 19, 2008. We mount the motorcycles early to get as many miles behind us as possible. |
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The never ending desert, sand and wind were starting to get to us just a little bit. |
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Dakhla to El-Aaium, also called Laayoune, is 542km of nothingness,... |
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...expect the occasional check-stop. |
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The skeleton of a ship on the Western Sahara Coast line. |
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This deserted beach might look appealing, but the Atlantic Wind is hauling and very cold. |
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In Laayoune we take a room & the motorcycles are parked in here. |
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June 20, 2008. We detour to Tarfaya to see the DAR MAR, a 200 years plus old castle. |
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Here we say Good-Bye to the Western Sahara, cheap gasoline ($0.75CDN/litre) & military/police check stops. |
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We continue northwards to Tan Tan, Guelmim & after 700km arrive in Taroudannt. |
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The view from our room ($6.00CDN/night). |
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The motorcycles are parked in the open square below,... |
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...which is surrounded by cafes and men drinking coffee. |
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June 21, 2008. The old town of TAROUDANNT is encircled by a 7km long wall. |
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The wall and towers are one of the best preserved in Morocco. |
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We decide to walk the circumference of the 7km wall. |
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The Walls are in poor repair away from the main area. |
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Locals have dug holes into the side walls to create a short cut for pedestrians & scooters. |
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A white mosque. The haze is too thick & we can only see the outline of the High Atlas Mountains. |
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Here the wall has completely collapsed. |
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A tower is cracking. |
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A Moroccan on his way to the market with his fresh produce. |
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Through Morocco is quite modern, donkeys & carts are still a common sight. |
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Another gate into the walled town. |
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The walls around the main entrance (touristy area)... |
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...are in very good shape. |
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June 22, 2008. We back track from Taroudannt to Agadir & follow the coast on the P8 to Essaouira. |
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In ESSAOUIRA the sun burns off the mist & fog to give-way to a beautiful fortified town. |
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Colorful carpets are displayed in the medina within the walled town. |
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A spice souk were we buy some Argon. |
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Argon oil is made from the nuts of the Argon tree. |
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I guess we could always get a motorcycle built here, if ours fail. |
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Olives and more olives... |
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...we can not resist buying some. |
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Blue doors, a trademark of Morocco. |
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The minerat of a mosque. |
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Morocco has amazing food for very cheap. |
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Doesn't this look very healthy and fresh? |
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Argon Oil and nuts. |
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Only 500m from the Bab Doukkala (Gate) we find a very nice hotel for less then $30.00CDN/night. |
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June 23, 2008. We enter the walled town of Essaouira, before most tourists and locals are awake... |
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...and head straight for the south-eastern point and the port. |
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The sqalas, also called sea bastion mark the harbour entrance. |
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Small fishing boats line the harbour. |
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Calm waters and perfect reflections. |
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We watch at the dock as the fishermen... |
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...return with their morning catch. |
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It is a large harbour and several fishing boats are pulled out of the water for maintenance. |
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Try finding your boat in the midst of all these similar looking ones. |
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A second sqala (bastian) is only a couple of hundred meters from the first. |
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The medina is full of small streets ... |
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...and alleyways. |
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The outer ramparts can be climbed ... |
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...and has canons facing the sea. This one is dated 1758. |
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The town was founded in the 7th Century BC. |
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Most of the current fortifications seen today are due to the Portuguese influence... |
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...followed by the naval base set up of Mohammed II. |
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Essaouira is known for its wood work. |
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Different wood like ebony & citrus are used for inlays of thuya made boxes, sold here. |
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Ruby gets traditional Henna painted on both her legs. |
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Berber women paint Henna patterns to give protection against supernatural forces. |
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Besides keeping evil spirits away, they are supposed to purify & beautify the wearer. |
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The afternoon is the best time to get a picture of the outer walls of Essaouira. |
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Fish and other sea food is being cleaned here, hence the large amount of birds. |
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The Moroccans haul food and other items in and out of the walled town. |
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It is a hard job. |
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June 24, 2008. The road P10 from Essaouira east to Marrakech is uneventful. We set up camp at the Le Relais. |
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The campgrounds highlight is its beautiful swimming pool... |
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...with lawn chairs. A nice facility for less then $10.00CDN/night. |
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June 25, 2008. In the morning we look for a motorcycle shop and tires in MARRAKECH. |
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No luck on tires. Late afternoon, with Babs & Helmut in tow, we take a taxi into Marrakech. |
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Our first walk by is the Koutaoubia Mosque. The minaret at night time. |
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The foundation of a former mosque can still be seen. |
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Continuing onwards to the Bab er Robb (Gate), we enter the SAADIAN TOMBS. |
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It displays some of the finest Islamic Architecture in Morocco. |
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These tombs date from the 16th to 18th century. |
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The mihrab is decorated with stalactites... |
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...and framed by a horseshoe arch supported by grey marble pilasters. |
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The two (2) main mausoleums are of Ahmed el-Mansour and... |
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...his mother Lalla Messaouda. |
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Details of the mausoleum. |
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Morocco has the best fresh squeezed orange juice. |
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Past the Place Jemaa el-Fna lies the souk. |
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The Rahba Kedima "Old Square" was quite interesting as different type of fetishes were on display. |
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Some would be difficult to take back into the western countries,... |
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Not surprising the Moroccan souks are mostly geared to tourism. |
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Beautiful carpets are everywhere. |
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Another highlight is the Brass, Silver & Gold Souk. |
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Thanks to our DK Guidebook we were able to navigate... |
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...our way quite well through different areas of the souk. |
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This Moroccan was amazing with both his hands and feet... |
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...he would create amazing ornaments... |
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...out of wood. |
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Wool or silk, freshly dyed are for sale. |
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A variety of nuts and fruits are on display. |
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We return to the famous PLACE JEMAA EL-FNA. |
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The best view of the square is from one of the roof top restaurants. |
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It comes to life after sunset. Due to its unique display of Heritage & Culture it has been added to the UNESCO list. |
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Small open-air restaurants emerge in the midst of the square. |
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More dates and nuts for sale. |
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Spectators, performers & locals start to fill the area. Cobra snakes move in trance to the music of the snake charmers. |
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Water sellers in Marrakech... |
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...in traditional dress. |
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Locals shopping. |
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The sun is setting over Marrakech. |
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A huge pot of snails can be seen here. |
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As the last trace of day light disappears,... |
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...the open air-restaurants light up. |
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Smoke from cooking illuminates the sky above... |
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...giving the area a mystic atmosphere. |
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It is time for us to join the masses... |
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...and try different Moroccan food. |
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Babs & Helmut stop off at the snail booth... |
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...to get a couple of bowls of snails. Sorry we could not do it. |
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Doesn't this look like heaven? |
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Starving, we try out everything that looks like it is not seafood. |
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It is all prepared right in front of you. |
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The waiter gets friendly with Mike. |
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We dig in whole heartedly into the mixed meat and bastilla. |
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Moroccan food at its best... |
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...and a great place to take in Moroccan culture. |
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Okay some food we did not try. |
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Another adventurer from Germany, who has been in Morocco for (3) months. Check out his load. |
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June 26 & 27, 2008. From Marrakech we head to CASABLANCA. Around 28km south of Casablanca... |
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...on the coastal road we set up camp at the Hawai Campsite. Locals took pity on us... |
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...and brought us food. Muslim hospitality as always wonderful. |
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The picture in the campbook looks nothing like this. The campsite definitely has seen better days. |
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June 28, 2008. We return to Casablanca & after only an hour and with the help of a friendly taxi driver... |
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...we find the motorcycle parts shop. Moto Plus has everything for the GS & is English speaking. |
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We get (2) sets of front & rear Metzler Tourance installed in 1 1/2 hrs... |
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...while we hang out at the cafe across from the shop. Civilization yeah. |
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In the afternoon we park the motorcycles in front of the MOSQUE OF HASSAN II. |
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The 200m high Minaret rises up impressively... |
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...with a back drop of the Atlantic Ocean and deep blue sky. |
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Marble in combination with granite and onyx is used on doorways. |
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One of (2) beautiful fountains. Decorated with Zellij tilework & framed with marble arches & columns. |
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Nothing has been spared on its grandness. Many doors are clad in incised bronze. |
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The minaret is 25m wide. |
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Entrance to the amazing mosque is 120DH/person ($16.00CDN/person). |
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Guided tours are the only way one can see the inside of the mosque. |
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The mosque is the 3rd largest religious building in the world after the mosques in Mecca & Medina. |
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Its highlight is the Prayer Hall,... |
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...which can accommodate 25,000 people. |
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The Women's Gallery. |
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The central part of the roof made out of painted cedar can be opened to the sky. |
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Decorative lighting. |
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Below the prayer hall is the hammam (bath)... |
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...and a swimming pool. |
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For (4) nights in a row we eat at this restaurant on the coastal road. |
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Beef Tajine our favourite Moroccan dish. |
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June 29, 2008. Only 80km south of our campsite lies EL-JADIDA. |
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A town settled by the Portuguese in 1502. |
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Our main reason for visiting the coastal town was to see the... |
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...Portuguese cistern (former armoury) built underground around 1514. |
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A well allows daylight to enter. |
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It is a great place to visit and wonderful for taking spooky pictures. |
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Certain scenes of Orson Welles film Othello was filmed here. |
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The water mirrors the vaults... |
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...and (25) pillars. |
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We finish our tour of the town by walking along the ramparts... |
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...and on top of the remaining bastions. |
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The fog & mist comes in from the Atlantic in waves covering the blue sky. |
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The outer wall. The ditch once used to hold sea water. |
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Portuguese architecture can still be found today... |
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...requiring some maintenance. It reminded us of Angola. |
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June 30, 2008. From Casablanca we headed via back roads to Berrechid, through Fleih Ben Salah... |
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...into the Middle Atlas Mountains and CASCADES D'OUYOUD. |
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It is truly amazing, no fencing & water tumbles down from a 100m cliff... |
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...into the canyon below into Wadi el-Abid. |
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A well kept path leads to a viewpoint... |
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...opposite the waterfall. There are several natural pools along the way and... |
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...we take the opportunity to cool off in the swimming hole called Africa. |
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On the return we walk up the steep steps and... |
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...take a break to enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice and a great view. |
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By chance we are able to visit a mill only a couple of meters from the cliff. |
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The water moves a gear connected to a grindstone on which corn or barley is ground to flour. |
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July 01, 2008. We back track on the twisty 1811 to the P21. |
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The 35km stretch of paved road is super twisty and it takes us (1) hour. |
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A by-pass road allows us to avoid entering Marrakech & ... |
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...we continue on P31 toward the High Atlas Mountains. |
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We are entering Berber country. We had been looking forward to this part of Morocco. |
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An amazing road with (2) passes leads from Marrakech to Ait Benhaddou, our final destination. |
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The first pass is 1470m called the Tizi-n-Ait Imger and is followed by the TIZI-N-TICHKA PASS. |
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At 2,260m it is the highest paved road in Morocco. The top has a nice view,...
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...even though it is pretty hazy, we are able to see the full scale of the HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS. |
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Temperature at this altitude is pleasant. A sign at the pass. |
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2km past Ait Benhaddou we set up camp at the Defat Kasbah Campsite. |
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July 02, 2008. We ride into AIT BENHADDOU at sunrise to capture the perfect light. |
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The ksar was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site and ... |
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...used, due to its uniqueness, for film sets. |
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Behind the kasbahs stand plain earth houses. |
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Wadi Mellah, currently dry, has to be crossed to get to the village. |
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The Kasbahs'crenellated towers are decorated with ... |
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...blind arches geometric designs in negative relief. |
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Today only a few families inhabit the ancient village. |
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There is no official road to the village & donkeys are the only way of transporting goods. |
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A few walls remain on top of the hill, evidence of where a fortress once stood. |
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We wander around the small alleyways,... |
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...between earth houses to the top of the hill. |
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The main path is in good condition. |
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A peek into a still occupied house. |
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As with most cultures, animals live on the base floor. |
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Wooden doors. |
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The view from the top of the hill... |
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...across Wadi Mellah... |
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...and its banks. |
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Later we are able to visit one of these Kasbahs. |
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Potteries line the roof top... |
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...of this Kasbah. |
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Across Wadi Mellah lies the new Ait Benhaddou. |
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For 10DH ($1.35) we climb the towers of this Kasbah. |
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Another unique wooden door. |
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A less traveled pathway. |
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Small alleyways. |
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Another beautiful Kabash with well preserved designs. |
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From the top of the Kabash we see a local feed his stock. |
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The stairway we had just come up. |
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A closer look at the inside of a Kabash. |
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Animals within the courtyard. |
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An ancient lock. |
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A small mud bridge to get across a stream. |
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