Zambia & Zimbabwe Trip Journal from Jan. 26 to 30, 2008

Last updated Mar. 15, 2008.  To return to Zambia & Zimbabwe Pictures.

Country: Zambia & Zimbabwe

Duration: Jan. 26 to 30, 2008.

Distance Traveled in the Country: Approx. 1300km on the motorcycles.

Most Memorable Impressions:

Zambia is not a cheap place to visit, but it does have one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the World and the most spectacular waterfall we have seen to date; Victoria Falls.  In the rainy season the falls were unbelievable.  To fully appreciate its size we explored both the Zambia and Zimbabwe side of Victoria Falls, including an aerial view from the helicopter.  This is one of the World Heritage sites that did not disappoint.

Our Favourite:

-         Victoria Falls

Fuel Cost: 7300 to 8100 ZK/litre ($2.00 to $2.25CDN/litre) for Unleaded Fuel.

Accommodations: Camped (1) night for $14.00US/night and hotel for (3) nights for between $30.00US to $60.00US/night.

Exchange Rate: 3600 Zambian Kwacha (ZK) = $1.00CDN

Border Formality Costs: Zambia Visa = $110.00/person; Zimbabwe Visa = $65.00US/person

Motorcycle Customs = Free with Carnet de Passage, plus carbon tax of 50,000 ZK/motorcycle ($14.00US/motorcycle) payable in local currency only.

Jan. 26, 2008.  We entered Zambia from Malawi at the Mchinji Border Post.  We had been forewarned that Zambia was expensive and it started with the entry Visa.  Zambia had implemented the new budget the week prior, which included doubling the entry Visa for Canadians from $55.00US/person to $110.00US/person.  The immigration officer at the border felt very bad for us and gave us a multi entry visa, which came in handy later.  At customs we were hit with the Carbon Tax, to be paid only in local currency.  Luckily I had just enough Malawi Kwacha cash left over that I was able to change into Zambian Kwacha via a border tout to cover 50,000ZK/motorcycle ($14.00US/motorcycle).  Welcome to Zambia.  The bank machine in Chipata worked on the Debit card and I was able to withdraw a million Zambia Dwacha.  Prior to entering Zambia we had fueled up the motorcycles and Jerry can at the last town before the border, as we had heard of high gasoline prices.  At our first fuel stop on Zambia, this was confirmed as one (1) litre of unleaded fuel was 8100.00ZD or $2.25CDN.  Mama Rula's Campground is located 4km north of Chipata.  The beautiful grounds were soaked due to the huge rains they had received recently.  There was no one else camping and we were humming and hawing about were we would set up our tent, as the rain was relentless. The campsite at Mama Rula was 50,000ZK/night ($14.00CDN/night).  We had a good cheeseburger with fries and two (2) Coca Cola at the bar/restaurant for 72,000ZK ($20.00CDN).     

Jan. 27, 2008. In the morning we packed up the wet tent in the rain and headed to Lusaka. We had heard that the heavy rains had washed away one of the bridges on the main highway.  When we came upon the detour, my first comment was "there is no way I am riding through that".  The sky had fully opened up to drench us. The temporary bridge installed was off-set 100m from the original and now missing bridge.  The road to it is totally deep mud.  The profile of our tires after 25,000km is almost down to the wear bar.  Mike walked the entire length to scope out the best route through.  I was amazed that he did not drop the motorcycle as it was very slippery.  Continuing on our ride, we were glad that the Luangwa Bridge was still intact, as there would have been no alternative to cross the large Luangwa River.  A check stop is located on the west side of the river and we had a good view of the span of the bridge from higher up.  After 550km and approx. 20km before the Capital of Zambia, Lusaka, we turned onto a dirt road to reach the Pioneer Camp. This campground is beautiful.  As our tent was still soaked and thunderous black clouds loomed on the horizon we took the honeymoon Chalet for $60.00US/night (normally $120.00US/night) including breakfast.  What a treat.  The room had a huge four post bed with an actual mattress, fluffy pillows and mosquito net.  The bathroom has a stone tub with hot water.  We can not remember when we had a nice room like this one on the trip.

Jan. 28, 2008.  After breakfast at the Pioneer Camp, we were treated to our first day of no rain.  After covering 400km we reached our destination, Livingstone.  The last 60km prior to Livingstone is covered with huge potholes, which try to swallow up your motorcycle.  We tried three (3) campgrounds outside of Livingstone toward Victoria Falls. The Maramba Lodge & Campground was not taking any tents now, as the site was totally flooded, which was a shame as it was beautifully landscaped and directly on the river. The Waterfront Lodge & Campground, a popular spot for big overland trucks, took tents, but told us first to check out the campsite as there had been a lot of flooding.  The campsite was one big sea of water and with more rain in the horizon not a good place to be.  Another choice was Livingstone Campsite, but the road into it was mainly under water.  We decided to return to Livingstone and stayed at the Fawlty Towers and instead of pitching a tent went for a room without a bathroom for $30.00US/night.  It was the right choice as the torrential rains were unbelievable every day.  We met Chris a Brit on a CCM250, who had traveled down the west side of Africa.

Jan. 29, 2008. We had a full day of activities ahead of us.  Dressed in our motorcycle rain gear we headed for the Victoria Falls Bridge.  Leaving the motorcycle on the Zambian side, we receive our exit stamp and walk across the Victoria Falls Bridge and our first view of the Waterfalls and Boiling Pot.  The Zimbabwe Border Post is only a couple of hundred meters from the bridge and we have to purchase a Zimbabwe visa for single entry for $65.00US/person.  The Zimbabwe Victoria Falls National Park is located directly passed the Border Post and entrance is 15 Euro/person (or $20.00US/person).  We walked from the David Livingstone Monument to the Danger Point directly opposite the Cataract Island, Main Falls and Rainbow Falls.  Steps led down to the Devil's Cataract for a great view.  As we are walking through the rain forest and the closer we get to the Danger Point, the heavier the spray of the waterfalls get.  We were soaked in the spray of the waterfall.  The motorcycle rain gear had no chance.  We were able to video and take pictures in these conditions as we had a waterproof digital camera.  At times I was unable to open my eyes due to the heavy spray.  The experience was unforgettable as the vast volume of the falls can not be described and the thundering noise is unimaginable unless experienced in person.  I felt lucky to be at the falls in the rainy season, but knew we had to return one day in the dry season.  After three (3) hours we returned to the Zambian side, luckily our visa was a multi entry visa, as the officer at the Malawi/Zambia border felt sorry for us to pay $110.00US/person for single entry and gave us gratis a multi entry visa.  It came in handy as we knew we would cross into Zimbabwe only for the day.  The entrance fee for the Musi-O-Tunya National Park is $10.00US/person. On the Zambia side it seemed that we were even closer to the falls and a bridge took us to an island for an amazing view of the Rainbow Falls and Eastern Cataract.  It is hard to believe but we got even more soaked then on the Zimbabwe side.  The waterfalls are spectacular. To top it all off we blew the budget and went on a helicopter ride with Batoka Sky for $100.00/person for 15 minutes in a Bell 205 Jetranger Helicopter.  They only had space on a 30 minute flight and we were able to be on the 30 minute Helicopter ride for the same price (normal price $200.00/person). In addition to seeing the Victoria Falls from the air, we had an amazing flight through the Batoka Gorge.  The helicopter was only a couple of meters of the surface of the river as we wound our way through the gorge.  A perfect ending to a perfect day.

Jan. 30, 2008.  Another one of those days where we were happy that we had taken a room, as it rained heavy all night.  From Livingstone we changed our route to enter into Namibia at the Wenela Border Post.  The Caprivi Strip is a Game Reserve and we had originally assumed that we were not allowed to pass through with the motorcycle, but Chris had reinsured us that it was possible.  A brand new bridge over the Zambezi River, eliminated the ferry and allowed for a much faster crossing.  The border formalities leaving the country were, as always, a breeze.

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