July 16, 2005.  Joaquin and Annie arrived from Mexico on their R1200GS two days ago.  They had been on the road for about a month.  We put new TKC80 on Joaquin's GS and did some last minutes shopping for some warm clothes for them.  The week leading up to this had been stressful.  We had Simon and Michaela from U.K. arrive on Monday, who left on Wednesday for their 6 month trip to Ushuaia on the R1100GS.  Tuesday night Sasha, from California, and Brad, from New Zealand, arrived on their way through from Alaska.  No wonder we forgot to pack some of the important items, like toilet paper and towels.  The weather in Calgary had been awesome for the last two weeks until the morning we leave for our trip.  We left Calgary at 8am heading west to Banff in pouring rain.  The sun tried to break through on our way from Banff to Jasper and Joaquin and Annie did enjoy the amazing scenery.  Then we got stopped for speeding just past Jasper.  The cop didn't give Joaquin and Annie a Ticket, and he took 10km off our tickets.  Yeah, whatever, it sucks to get a ticket for going 105km/hr on a motorcycle.  What is the point. From Jasper we rode north on Hwy 40 through Grande Cache to Grande Prairie.  As the rain didn't light up we decided to get a Motel.  (800kms)

July 17, 2005. Blue skies greeted us in the morning as we headed to Dawson Creek.  We stopped at Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway for some pictures.  The journey finally begins.  We pushed for Liard River Hot Springs, passing through Stone Mtn. Provincial Park and Muncho Lake Provincial Park.  This part is definitely one of the most beautiful stretches of the Alaska Highway.  From Ft. Nelson to Liard River we were hammered with thunderstorms.  Joaquin and Annie stayed in Muncho Lake Resort, while we ended up in the overflow part of the Liard River Hot Springs Campground.  Just as we arrived the sky cleared and we were able to set up the tent and have an enjoyable meal in the sun.  The hot springs are made up of the Alpha Pool and Beta Pool.  The area surrounding the pools are lush in fauna and the swamp was steaming giving it a surreal appearance.  We spent a good hour relaxing in the Beta Pool which is about 3m deep. (900kms)

July 18, 2005.  It rained on and off during the night.  We packed up the wet tent and met up with Joaquin and Annie at 8:30am.  The cloudy sky stayed with us for most of the day, we actually reached a high of +11 Deg. Celsius.  Poor Joaquin and Annie were freezing.  Both Mike and I were prepared for this and even wore our rain gear to keep warm.  We took a picture as we entered the Yukon and then stopped in Watson Lake at the famous sign posts.  The road from Watson Lake to Whitehorse followed mostly the BC/Yukon border.  The scenery around Teslin Lake and Marsh Lake is beautiful.  But we mostly were riding a lot of straight road with big sweeping corners.  Just as we got close to Whitehorse the skies opened up and didn't lighten up.  Again we defaulted to getting a room.  No cheap rooms in Whitehorse. (650kms)

July 19, 2005.  All loaded up and ready to leave Whitehorse, Ruby's bike battery was dead.  Originally we thought it was just the battery leads, but it seems not.  Luckily the motel owner had some booster cables and we are back on the road in no time.  From Whitehorse we headed north on the Alaska Highway.  Little did we know that it was going to be a great riding day.  We encountered a lot of construction along the way, which made for some interested riding in the mud, since it rained all day.  The BMW's shines in this kind of climate.  Thanks to the BMW off-road course we took last month, we were laughing the whole way, passing vehicles (especially Harleys) left and right and showing them how it is done.  In Destruction Bay we noticed that Ruby's rear tire was low again and that Joaquin's rear shock had gone.  Not much we could do until we hit Anchorage.  We didn't see much of the scenery, but we were told it is beautiful.  The border crossing was a breeze and we were in Tok, Alaska in no time.  As if in a miracle the sun came out as we hit Tok, just in time for us to set up camp.  After a good home made meal of Lipton noodles we had the biggest ice cream ever.  The days are getting longer, and we now start sleeping with our eye masks. (650kms)

July 20, 2005.  It did rain again during the night, but we had clear sailing for the first few hours of our ride.  At Tok we took Hwy 1 south to Anchorage.  We rode along the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park and had a great view of Mt. Sanford (Elevation 16,237ft) and Mt. Drum (Elevation 12, 010ft) with their snow covered peaks.  In the afternoon it started to cloud over again as we passed Matanuska Glacier.  We arrived at the BMW dealership in Anchorage around 4pm, where we met Mark (a Ducati fanatic) and all the mechanics.  We were scheduled for some new TKC80's, as well as a 30,000km service on Ruby's bike.  Joaquins' rear shock was at lease 2 days away in California, so he talked to the BMW dealership owner and arranged for them to take a rear shock off a new model (still in the box).  It seems we will be on schedule.  Prior to leaving Calgary we had contacted Barb and Victor in Anchorage.  Barb runs the Alaska Leather Shop and we had met them at the BMW Rally in Spokane in 2004.  As we were in Anchorage now they offered us accommodations, which we couldn't pass up.  Victor met us at the BMW dealership and we were treated to Buffalo burgers and beer at his house.  Unfortunately Barb was in Ohio at the 2005 BMW Rally.  We spent some time looking at the Alaska map and scouting out the must ride routes.  Can't wait to get on the road again. (500kms)

July 21, 2005.  The Anchorage BMW dealership does not open until 10 am and closes at 6pm.  It took all day, but in the end we had new TKC80's on front and rear, Ruby's 30000km service c/w new battery, and new brake pads for Mike's GS.  Joaquin was the lucky one, his bike had a new rear shock installed by 2pm, they took it off a new GS still in the crate.  Afterwards we went to Barb's Alaskan Leather Shop.  A definite stop for all riders.  We thought we had everything, but Barb's still got some cool stuff we couldn't resist buying.  And if you are ever in need of new tires, Barb has TKC80's in stock and will mount them for you.  Victor gave us the tour of the shop and then we went for seafood.  Thanks for greet hospitality Victor.

July 22, 2005.  Joaquin and Annie stayed in Anchorage for a bit longer and then headed straight north to Fairbanks.  We decided to get an early start and head over Hatcher Pass.  The road runs from Palmer to Willow and starts out paved and twisty and then turns into gravel as you climb up the Pass.  It is about 50 miles and should not be missed.  There was an incredible view of the mountains and green meadows.  Thanks to Victor and Mark (who thinks it is the best Ducati road in Alaska) for recommending this side trip.  From there we headed north on Hwy 3 and got an awesome view of Mt. McKinley (Elevation 20,320ft) and Mt. Hunter (Elevation 14,573ft).  At Cantwell we turned onto Hwy 8 or also called the Denali Highway.  This stretch of road connects the Richardson Highway (Hwy 4) and George Parks Highway (Hwy 3).  Not very much traffic, since 120 miles of it are gravel, the scenery is pretty and on a clear day as we had, the white mountain peaks towered in the blue sky.  Upon arrival at Paxson, we were quite dusty and looked for a campground with a shower, which took us up to Delta Junction. (750kms) 

July 23, 2005.  We met up with Joaquin and Annie at George's BMW Shop in Fairbanks at noon.  We had been forewarned of its uniqueness, but it still surprised us.  George wasn't there, so we decided to get fuel canisters and start our journey north.  The road from Fairbanks to Livengood is paved and in good condition.  We had fueled up in Fairbanks and the next available gas station was Yukon River.  From Livengood to before the Arctic Circle the road is hard packed gravel and easy 120km/hr.  From there it turns into pavement again right up to Coldfoot.  We didn't expect clear sailing, we can see that it would be a different story if it started to rain and the road would turn into a muddy mess.  We are hoping for no rain.  Both smiling we stand at the Artic Circle, we made it this far.  We realize it is the start to so much more.  In Coldfoot we leave Joaquin and Annie to stay in the "Inn" for US$140. The room is a trailer with two (2) single beds.  We head on 4 miles past Coldfoot to the Marion Creek Campground (Coordinates N 67Deg18.991', W150Deg09.251'), which is nestled in the mountains.  We set up camp, make spaghetti for supper and light a fire, what a perfect way to end the day.  Sunset at 2:33am and Sunrise 5:41am.  Yeah we will get a bombing 3hrs of darkness. (600 kms total, incl. 200km gravel) 

July 24, 2005.  During the night we are woken up by a loud noise outside our tent.  We are both wide awake in seconds.  Mike loads up the bear bangers and I am scared.  Slowly we open up the tent door and peak out.  Two Moose are standing beside our bikes eating the leaves of the bushes.  2:30am in the morning and we are awake.  It took us forever to get back to sleep with a scare like that.  At 8am we met up with Joaquin and Annie and headed north on the Dalton Highway.  We got good weather, but the wind is cold.  The road is still mostly hard packed and only has some loose gravel for a few kms.  There is even another stretch of pavement.  Rolling into Deadhorse was a disappointment.  A dusty oil settlement, with trailers and oil rigs.  We had lunch at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel.  It was 47Deg Fahrenheit outside and we were chilled.  That was it, mission accomplished. We decided to head back to Coldfoot.  Maintaining 120km/hr, we made it back in 4hrs on the gravel.  Setting up the tent at the Marion Creek Campground, we lit another fire and relaxed. (780km gravel)

July 25, 2005.  8am we are back on the Haul Road heading south to Anchorage.  We stop at Yukon River for Gas and some breakfast.  In Anchorage we head for the Harley Dealership, so that Mike can change his oil.  But as we find out that in the States you are not allowed to do oil changes on motorcycle dealership premises, because they could be sued.  We decide to go to George's BMW Shop and even he tells us that he has to supervise Mike doing an oil change.  As we discuss what our plans are, Mark from Quebec shows up on one of George's old BMW's, he has been on the road for a month across Canada.  He tells us that he did his oil change in Dawson City.  With all the hassle we are having we decide to wait until Dawson City.  Joaquin's rear TKC80 is not looking good.  6000kms and it is bald.  George sold him a used Metzler Tourance for $25.  Our next goal is the Dempster Highway to Inuvik, Northwest Territories.  Joaquin and Annie change their mind and decide to head to Valdez.  Two up is no fun on the gravel.  We will meet up again in six (6) days in Whitehorse at the Casa Loma Hotel 8am.  It is just Mike and I and we ride on to Delta Junction to set up camp and take a much needed shower and do laundry.  Couldn't believe the amount of dust we had collected.  The bikes were unrecognizable, covered with mud and dust.  We cleaned off the license plate, signal lights and headlight.  All refreshed we set down and look at the route ahead of us.  The weather looked promising. (550kms, incl. 200km gravel)

July 26, 2005.  On our way out of Delta Junction we took a picture of the “End of the Alaska Highway” Sign and head back south to Tok.  12miles out of Tok we turn onto the Taylor Highway which leads us to Chicken.  It was all it promised, an old mining town, with bus loads of senior tourists and big motor homes.  We did stop for ice cream and some TLC in the sun.  After Chicken the road turns into gravel and gets very twisty with some sharp drop off without guard rails.  Watch out for those tour buses.  The border crossing into Canada is a breeze.  It is very remote and top of the world.  Yeah, which means we actually start on the top of the world road to Dawson City.  The road goes from paved to gravel and winds it way on the ridge of the mountains.  Mountains as far as one can see.  Pretty amazing.  We cross the Yukon River on a Ferry and enter Dawson City. Dawson City is a place you have to see.  It has kept its old heritage.  We set up the tent in the down town RV park, which is no better then a big dusty parking lot, but it is close to the action.  After cleaning off the dust we stroll down main street Dawson City and end up in the Diamond Tooth Gerti's Gambling Casino / Show Girls.  We watch the show girls performs as they did a 100 years ago.  I guess it is all show, but still entertaining to imagine being here way back in time. (500kms, incl. 100km gravel)

July 27, 2005.  We didn't get on the road until 10 am and stop for fuel and breakfast at the intersection of the Klondike Highway and Dempster Highway.  Our TKC80 rear tires is not looking good.  We know we are in a desperate need for new tires after the Dempster Highway.  The owner of the gas stop gives us access to a Whitehorse Phonebook and we make a call to the Honda Dealership.  Amazingly they actually have two (2) TKC80 rear tires in stock, we reserve them for pick up on July 30, 2005.  This definitely gave us some peace of mind.  Next fuel is not for another 371km in Eagle Plains, to play it save we fill our 1 gal canisters each.  The day starts out with blue sky as we head up the Dempster Highway to Inuvik, 745kms of gravel and no pavement.  We are pleasantly surprised by how beautiful the scenery is.  The previous day the Dempster Highway was closed due to a wildfire burning beside the road, but was just opened up.  The gravel road is pretty good to the Artic Circle, which is the first 425km.  The road winds it's way through the green valley.  Then it follows the red river, which stands in sharp contrast to its surroundings and gets its color from high copper content.  At km 318 we actually have to wait for the pilot car to lead us through the wildfire.  The fire was burning right beside the road and the intensity of the heat could be felt right through your clothes.  One instance we had total white out with smoke.  We could see why the road was closed the day before. 37kms north of Eagle Plains, we stopped for the Artic Circle Picture and another 146km from there we entered the NWT.  The road was getting challenging, graters and trucks were spreading out fresh gravel and wetting down the road.  A lot of this section we were standing up on the bikes to make it through the loose stuff.  About 30kms from the ferry to Fort McPherson, I hit some very loose gravel at 120kms/hr and the back end started fish tailing.  I didn't save it and ended up going down and tumbling with the bike along the gravel.  Can't believe I didn't go down the steep shoulder.  I was okay, my protective wear took all the hits, the helmet had some big gouges missing and the poor bike had a broken windshield and the handle bar was rotated.  The GPS was ripped off and most of the impact was taken by the right Touratech hand protectors and pannier (which are indestructible).  Amazing what this bike can withstand.  I was sad, but not hurt.  Mike helped me get it back up and I got back on it and rode on until Fort McPherson.  We stayed at the Nitainlaii Campground after the ferry and inspected the bike.  All was looking good.  We couldn't rotate the handlebars, since we were missing a crucial tool. (610kms, incl. 570kms of gravel)

July 28, 2005. A storm is moving in, the sky is turning dark as we head north to Inuvik.  The next 70kms to Tsiigehtchic is very loose gravel and we ride standing up, the wind is bitter cold, we wear all our gear including rain gear to keep warm. We arrive at the McKenzie River Ferry and wait for 45 minutes for the crossing.  Not much traffic up here.  We meet a couple from Germany who have been on the road for 2 years, traveling the world in their Land Cruiser.  We wish we could have hooked up with them and talked about their adventures, but the storm brewing above us made us decide to keep on moving to Inuvik.  The next 128kms are mostly hard packed, except for one newly grated section.  We stopped in at the Tourist Center in Inuvik and receive our Certificate for traveling our motorcycles up the Dempster Highway.  Lunch at the Eskimo Hotel, a picture of the Igloo Church and Inuvik welcome sign and we were on the road south again.  The forecast was for rain and we didn't want to risk getting stuck in it.  We actually made it back to Eagle Plains and set up the tent on top of the mountain overlooking the surrounding mountains.  We could have pushed on to Dawson City, but our bodies started complaining about the constant abuse we had been putting it through.  The Dempster Highway outdoes the Dalton Highway in many ways.  But you have to see it for yourself to judge, you will not be disappointed.  (560kms of gravel)       

July 29, 2005.  Somehow we slept through our wake up alarm and didn't get back on the road until 9am.  Last night we were sitting in the lounge which overlooked the mountain range, as I was updating our journal the sun never went down.  Someone said it was 11:45pm and we couldn't believe it, the sun was still high in the sky.  The wind had shifted and the wildfire smoke was heavy in the air.  We were lucky to have seen the beautiful scenery on our way up.  The next 371km of gravel were long and tiring.  We stopped at the Red Creek for some pictures and were approached by the RCMP.  The Dempster Highway has a special program were the RCMP travels in a Motorhome up and down the highway and talk/assist/help tourist or locals in need.  They camp along the highway in the national park campgrounds.  We were not aware of this program and a pretty well disguised RCMP Motorhome.  If we hadn't planned to stop at the Red Creek we would have sped by him.  From the Red Creek we went through the Tombstone area, were the smoke had cleared up. Back at the Klondike Highway and Dempster Highway Crossing we stopped for lunch and fueled up.  The tires looked bad, they had been through some major abuse.  We are both impressed with the BMW's and how well they did on this trip.  From here it is 510kms to Whitehorse on the Klondike Highway, which meanders its way through lakes and mountains, unfortunately it started to rain heavy for the last 400kms, our plan to stay at the Takhini Hotsprings Campground didn't look as appealing anymore.  Instead we took the cheapest motel in Whitehorse, which is still a rip off at $80.00 a night.  I was coming down with a cold, and we had been pushing for 2 weeks straight.  It was time for some TLC. (880kms, incl. 371kms of gravel).

July 30, 2005.  First stop is the Honda Dealership in downtown Whitehorse.  We receive great service, the TKC 80's are waiting for us.  We are aware that it is a long weekend and they only have one service guy on duty.  We buy 9 Litres of oil to change the oil on our bikes and they let us change it in their parking lot and even provide the oil pans.  Welcome back to Canada.  New oil filters we always carry for spare.  Mike takes the rear tires off the bikes and starts the oil change, while I hang out with the service guy who changes the tires.  We are not able to balance them, but know that they will last only 6000km anyway.  Actually the last TKC 80 rear tire only lasted 5200kms and was breaking up badly as we pulled into Whitehorse.  Within 2 hrs we had the oil changed and new rear tires.  Thanks to Honda in Whitehorse for their excellent service and for those traveling on BMW's in desperate need of TKC 80's, stop in Whitehorse they do keep them in stock just for people like us.  The price was also on par at $219.00 per rear tire.  The remainder of the day we did laundry and relaxed. 

July 31, 2005.  Joaquin and Annie arrived the evening before and stayed at the same motel.  We were on the Alaska Highway heading toward Watson Lake by 8am.  Even though Whitehorse was cloudy, the sky cleared soon after heading east.  Every bike traveler we had run into had by-passed the 700km Cassiar Highway (Hwy 37) from Watson Lake to Kitwanga, due to rumors of bad conditions in the wet.  Joaquin and Annie had trouble with a slow leaking rear tire and decided to take the Alaska Highway to Prince George.  Since they decided to take their time heading south, we decided to hook up again at my parents place in Osoyoos.  Undaunted, we took the challenge and headed south on the Cassier Highway into BC. The road winds itself through the mountain range and several lakes and rivers.  It would have been a shame to miss this part of our trip.  With the exception of probably 50 to 80km of gravel and mud, the road was paved and twisty all the way.  We had to ride the muddy sections in a Thunderstorm, but the BMW's had no problem.  We set up the tent at the Meziadin Lake Provincial Campground, right beside the lake shore. (950kms, includes 50 to 80kms of gravel).

August 01, 2005.  The Cassiar Highway joined up with Hwy 16 at Kitwanga.  If we have learnt anything on this trip, then it is not to believe what people tell you regarding the difficultness of roads.  We would have missed some of the most incredible sceneries and experience if we would have listened to them.  From Kitwanga we headed west on Hwy 16 to Prince George.  We stopped in Moricetown to watch natives catch Salmon from the Skeena River.  The river narrows and all the water is forced through a tight canyon.  Both sides of the river banks have Salmon Ladders set up, which allows the Salmons to swim up river.  The natives have positioned there nets at the entrance to these ladders and remove Salmon by the dozens every few minutes.  We notice by the increased traffic that we are back in civilization.  From Prince George we turn south on Hwy 97 and decide to set up camp at the Bee Lazee Campground just south of Prince George. (650kms)

August 02, 2005.  The temperature was finally warming up as we headed south on Hwy 97.  The vegetation started to change from very green to brown dessert looking rolling hills.  In Cache Creek we called it a day and set up camp at the Brookside Campground.  In record time we had erected the tent and were sitting by the pool relaxing.  The owner of the campground joined us and we ended up taking about traveling to remote places and different cultures.  We walked one km to Cache Creek and rewarded ourselves with a couple of Blizzards from Dairy Queen.  (425kms)

August 03, 2005.  Staying on Hwy 97 we made our way through Kamloops to Vernon, were we hooked up with my sister Mandy for lunch.  We got back on the road south and passed through Kelowna, Penticton, and Oliver to Osoyoos.  It felt nice to be finally exposed to some hot weather.  Leaving Osoyoos and heading east, the road climbs up the mountain side with several switch backs to my parents place.  On top of the mountain, at the end of Grizzly Road, my parents recently have built their dream log house on 55+ acres overlooking the lake.  We arrived mid afternoon and within an hour of our being there my Dad had re-threaded and fixed my left mirror and moved the handle bars in the proper position. Besides the broken, windshield one couldn't tell I crashed it.  Thanks Dad for an awesome job as always.  After my Mom arrived home we cooled off in the temporary swimming pool and were treated to KFC and salad. (400kms)

August 04, 2005.  A day of relaxation in the sun and pool.  We were pampered by Mom and Dad and enjoyed doing nothing.

August 05, 2005.  All of us decided to head west to Hedley and visit the Mascot Gold Mine, which is situated a 1000m above the town Hedley on the side of the mountain. A $30 per person tour takes about 4 1/2 hrs and is definitely worth every penny.  A 24 seater bus takes approx. 1 hr to reach the mine.  The road is gravel, single lane, full of switch backs hugs the side of the mountain and gives an incredible view of the surrounding mountain ranges.  Two (2) tour guides greet you upon arrival.  There are no accommodations or food/drink facilities here, with the exception of a couple of out-houses.  It is a good idea to bring water and a snack, since we did reach temperatures in the +30 Degree Celsius range. From the top platform, we descend 530 stairs to the mine buildings.  Restoring the mine is an on-going work in progress.  With Hard Hats and Head Lamps, we even entered the old mine shafts and were treated to a special effects show.  To top it all off we had to climb back up all 530 steps to the top. By the time we returned to Osoyoos it was evening and we sat on the deck, eating bratwurst and potato salad.  As we watch the sun set behind the mountains, my parents remember their trip through Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria in 1972 in their VW Dune Buggy. 

August 06, 2005.  Who likes to leave paradise?  I guess all good things have to come to an end.  We leave my parents place at noon heading east on Hwy 3 through Grand Forks, Christina Lake, Castlegar, Creston, Cranbrook, Fernie, Crowsnest Pass and north on Hwy 22 to Calgary.  We arrived home at just after 8pm.  Another incredible journey to remember for a lifetime.  Joaquin and Annie had rear tire problems and changed tires to Metzler Tourance in Vancouver.  We hooked up again August. 07, 2005 in Calgary.  It was sad to see them continue their journey south, but we know we will see them again. (800 kms)

Thanks again to Victor who took us in for a couple of days in Anchorage and told us to take the Hatchers Pass.

Thanks to all the other travelers we met on the road and wish we could have spent more time together.

Thanks to Joaquin  and Annie, who put up with our pace and made this a trip to remember.

Thanks to my Mom and Dad for teaching me that there is more to life then sitting at home.  There are so many places to explore.    

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