Spain Trip from July 14 to 16 and July 28 & 29, 2008.

Last updated February 15, 2009.

Country: Spain

Duration: July 14 to 16 and July 28 & 29, 2008.

Distance Traveled through Europe: Approx. 1,500km on the motorcycles.

Most Memorable Impressions:

Spain is plain beautiful, from the helpful people, to the amazing architecture and landscape.  We just did not have enough time to explore it.  As time was not on our side we decided that the country deserved better and we would return in 2010.

Our Favourite:

- Merida Ancient Roman City

- Burgos Cathedral

- Spanish Pyranees

Fuel Cost: 1.23 Euro/litre ($2.09CDN/litre) for Unleaded Fuel.

Accommodations: Camping (3) nights from 12.70Euro to 20.80Euro/night ($21.00 to $35.00/night)

Exchange Rate: 1.00Euro = $1.68CDN

Border Formality Costs: None (the beauty of Europe)

July 14, 2008.  At the Spanish Border Post located 2km from Ceuta, a Spanish town on the soils of the African Continent (Morocco), an officer glances quickly at our passports and waves us through.  No entry stamp, nothing.  We loose an hour time entering into the European time zone.  At 11:15am we purchase the ferry ticket for 142.00Euro ($240.00CDN) including both motorcycles and us.  The ferry leaves at 11:30am, as always we are cutting it close and arrive last at the boarding point.  We get into line behind the other cars and watch them board.  At this point we both got emotional.  Tears were flowing down my face.  We had accomplished what seemed at times impossible. Nine (9) months around Africa.  An amazing adventure that both of us will not forget.  At that moment it hit us both that we had to say Good-bye to the African Continent.  33 countries and 58,000km in Africa alone.  On board we watch as the ship leaves the harbour and passes the large statue of Hercules.  Good-bye Africa.  The sky was overcast as we watched Africa slowly disappear on the horizon.  Within 45 minutes we were docking in Algeciras, Spain Mainland.  We were hoping to see Gibraltar, but it was too cloudy to make out anything.  Back on European soil we switch to the Europe Garmin GPS routing system.  On the ferry we had decided to try making it to Merida, a few hundred kilometres inland.  With a full fuel tank we manoeuvre our way out of Algeciras.  A Lidel (German Franchise supermarket) catches our eye and we stop.  The funny thing was that I walked in empty handed and walked out the same way.  We had become so used to living of basic food, that the sudden variety of one and the same product, made it hard to choose what we wanted.  We turn on the A381, a divided highway all the way to Jerez de La Frontera.  The GPS has the option to generate a route to your destination without hitting toll roads.  We exercised this option as much as possible through Europe.  It also allows you to see the small villages, experience the culture and come across unexpected historical sites.  From Jerez de La Frontera we headed north to Sevilla.  The by-pass route was heavily trafficked.  The overcastted sky had given way to blue sky and with that the temperatures rose. We continued on the N630 north to Merida.  All we were equipped with in regards to travel guide books was a AMA basic Portugal/Spain map.  Our one (1) day research on the Internet in Chefcheaun, Morocco had provided us with the UNESCO World Heritage Sites and a general itinerary for ten (10) days. As we got closer to Merida, we were on the look-out for campground signs.  We were in luck, 2km east of Merida we found the Merida Cat. 2 campground and set up camp for 20.80Euro/night ($35.00CDN/night).  The swimming pool was our first stop.  Then Mike rode into town and got some bread, onions, tomatoes, mayo, salami, chocolate and wine.  It was time to celebrate our arrival in Europe.

July 15, 2008.  Were we ever glad we had picked Merida for one of our must see places en-route back to Germany.  The GPS directed us smack downtown Merida and we parked our motorcycle in front of the bank in the Plaza de Espana.  Trying to get our bearings we walked past the Alcazaba (fortress) to the Puente de Guadina, a huge Roman build bridge.  Here a friendly old Spanish man approached us, who must have seen us looking lost, and in rapid Spanish gave us directions to the Theatre.  Merida is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site and with that the roads have brown signs pointing in the direction of monumental buildings.  Arriving at the entrance to the Roman Theatre, we were too early as the ticket office does not open until 9:30am.  Eager as always we are there first and purchase an all inclusive Merida ticket for 10.00Euro/person ($17.00CDN/person) and it came with an English guide book (Value for your money here).  The Roman and Moorish monuments are spread out all over town.  With the all inclusive ticket we are able to enter seven (7) of the prime historical sites, starting with the Roman Theatre.  It is probably the star attraction in this town, through we enjoyed all of the sites equally.  The Theatre is one of Europe's best preserved and to this date performances are staged in the summer time.  It was originally built around 15 to 16 BC.  Right beside the Theatre is another well preserved building the Amphitheatre, erected around 8 BC.  The amphitheatre was used for staging gladiatorial combats and fights between animals or between animals and men. Only a few meters away is the Amphitheatre House, an excavated area that consists of a partial city wall, aqueduct, water decanting tower, remains of two (2) dwellings and a Mausoleum. Continuing our walking tour of the town, we make our way to the Roman Circus. It is an oval stadium, measuring about 440m in length and 110m in width.  It was another place where the Romans would stage events.  We walked the entire circumference and then checked out the nearby San Lazaro Aqueduct. Next stop is the Santa Eulalia Church.  The 1990 refurbishment work at the church uncovered archaeological remains below the church, which we are now able to explore. The Temple of Diana and the Forum are located in the midst of town houses.  A modern city has been built on top of this ancient Roman city and ever so often through renovations or excavations more remains are uncovered.  The Mithraeum House is located on the other end of town and has some fabulous preserved mosaics on display.  After walking for kilometres and kilometres we return to the Alcazaba, or also called the Moorish Citadel.  Completed in 835AD, it is the first monument of this type to be built by the Moslems in Spain.  The highlight of the citadel is the underground cistern and the double stairway leading to it, which are supported by Roman pillars.  We grabbed a bite to eat in the Plaza de Espania, Cheeseburger with French Fries and Coca Cola for 11Euro ($18.50CDN), not bad.  What a great day it had been, en-route to the campsite we stop at the Los Milagros Aqueduct for a picture and then hit the swimming pool at the campsite.

July 16, 2008.  Today's destination is Portugal and more specific Lagos on the beautiful Algarve. Leaving Merida we head west on the A5 toward Badajoz.  We had pre-entered the route we would take based on the best biking roads website (www.bestbikingroads.com), which meant we turned of the A5 onto the N435.  This road is made for Suzuki GSXR 1000's and Yamaha R1's.  High speed and sweeping corners. Traffic is minimal and the scenery pretty.  From the flat plateau of Merida area we enter a mountain range called the Sierra de Aracena.  At one point we wind our way to the top of a mountain with a small village, a typical courtyard, a church and a view to die for.  Along the way we hoped to stop for some breakfast, but every bar/restaurant along the way was only serving coffee.  Not very appealing as non-coffee drinkers.  But hey we got a GPS and Mike asked for routing to the nearest McDonald's Restaurant, which leads us directly into Huelva.  Our first McDonald's stop since South Africa.  Spain has some of the cheapest fuel in Europe, maybe even the cheapest at 1.23Euro/litre and we fuel up just before entering Portugal.  The border is indicated by passing over the river Rio Guadiana.  Open borders, no more Visa's and border officials what a breeze.  Way too easy to travel, but we are not complaining. 

See Portugal Journal for the period of July 16 to July 28, 2008.

July 28, 2008.  From Braganca in Portugal we turn north and enter the Parque Natural de Montesinho (National Park).  One feels remote in this part of the world.  The climate is harsh as the region is sparsely inhabited.  The park also is called Terra Fria (Cold Land).  Making our way on a deserted highway to the Spanish border we encounter the road markings of where once the border station stood.  Now only a welcome sign to Spain can be found.  After 33 border crossings in Africa, Europe is such a breeze.  In Spain we join up with the N525 at Puebla de Sanabria.  As we continue on this route to Burgos our destination of the day, we soon realize that we were on the "Road to Santiago".  Hundreds of people, on foot, on bicycle and even on horse were making their way along this ancient route.  It is truly inspiring seeing young and old journeying along this way, in the same manner as their ancestors.  For those of you who have not heard of this pilgrimage it starts as far back as in France.  Along the way dozen of churches and cathedrals are found.  A traveller will receive a passport at the beginning of their trip and will get it stamped at each church and cathedral.  The final destination is Santiago de Compostela.  To receive a certificate one has to cover 100km of the route on foot or 200km on horseback.  We of course did not qualify and we were going the wrong way.  Mike and I made a pact to one day return and walk it.  We found a campsite on the outskirts of Burgos just off the A62 called Camping Cabia for 12.70Euro/night ($21.00CDN/night).  We speedily set up the tent and got back on the motorcycle.  The owner lady of the campsite had given us some brochures in German to explore Burgos.  We had pre-entered the GPS coordinates of the Cathedral and covered the 20km to town in no time.  We parked the motorcycle in a parkade located under the Plaza Mayor.  Equipped with a city map in German we wander over to the Arco de Santa Maria, which looks like a miniature castle with its many turrets and statues.  The highlight of Burgos is the now UNESCO World Heritage declared cathedral.  It never stops to amaze us how grand these churches/cathedrals are in Europe.  Each and everyone are unique in design and hold their special place in history.  Travelling around the world is not only about riding the motorcycle, but also experiencing the culture and taking in history.  We will never get bored of looking at yet another church or Roman Temple.  There is so much to be learnt from our past.  Burgos Cathedral is Spain's third largest cathedral.  Mainly Gothic in design it also displays some influence from Germany and France.  A stunning landmark.  The interior is unbelievably beautiful, and as we walk through the 84m by 59m footprint, we are awe struck continuously.  It takes us an entire hour to view each room from the Golden Staircase, the star-ribbed central dome to the Constables Chapel.  All rooms and displays are well signed.  Definitely one Spanish Cathedral not to be missed.  For a better view of the city we hike up to the Castle of Burgos.  The city of Burgos was originally founded at this location.  We visit the remains of the fortress.  The only other place we wanted to visit – Church of San Esteban - was closed on Mondays.  The hours fly by when having fun.  This was all the time we had for Burgos, though it has much more to offer, which we will have to leave for another day.  Back at the campsite, the lady made us a couple of sandwiches and French Fries (take away) which we ate at our cosy camping spot.

July 29, 2008.  It was Adios Spain and Bonjour France.  But no worries we will be back to Spain many times as it has way too much to offer on our tight schedule.  We had sat down and pre-planned our route through the Pyrenees.  We would follow the route of the Tour de France and ride up every famous mountain pass we recognised.  Our goal was to get to the base of the fun stuff and stay at a campsite close to a little town called Laruns in France.  From Burgos we stayed on the N120 to Logrono.  We had a bit of fun making our way through the centre of Logrono and ended up on the N111 toward Puente La Reina.  On a small road we made it to the N240 and turned into the heart of the Spanish Pyrenees at Lumbier.  The NA178 turned into the NA137 at Burgui and then cut right through the Valle de Roncal.  This spectacular road winds its way from Isaba to the tree-lined mountain via many switchbacks.  At the top there are no more trees, but an amazing view into three (3) separate valleys greeted us. At 1453m just before the border crossing from Spain into France and the Col de la Pierre St-Martin (1760m) the road is blocked and we are told that we had to reroute and return to Isaba and take the road over Uztarroz to the NA2011.  What a tough life we have riding all these superb roads, so what is a little detour when we can enjoy more fun riding. We cross into France at the Port de Larrau at 1573m.  The NA2011 changes to the D26 until we reach Tardets-Sorholus and then we rode along the D918 through Aramits to Arudy.  It took us most of the day to get to or final destination.  There are numerous campsites in the valley towards Laruns on the D934.  We can not remember the name of the place we stayed at, but it was only 7.00Euro/night ($12.00CDN/night).  We had stumbled on the Route de Fromage (Cheese), which pretty much follows the Tour de France through the Pyrenees.  We could not resist to stop at a local cheese store and buy a piece of Bribis 16-month old aged cheese.  This cheese is made from sheep's milk produced in the Pyrenees.  We fell in love with it and had it a few more times.  It goes very well with a bottle of French wine.  It is time to enjoy the finer things of life.

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