Morocco Trip Journal from June 18 to July 14, 2008.

Last updated Sept. 03, 2008. To return to Morocco Pictures.

Country: Morocco

Duration: June 18 to July 14, 2008.

Distance Traveled in the Country: Approx. 5200km on the motorcycles.

Most Memorable Impressions:

We had been looking forward to Morocco for two (2) main reasons. (a) our return to western civilization and (b) the amazing history and culture.  Morocco was exactly what we needed after a tough, but rewarding battle up the west coast of Africa.  The country exceeded our expectations in every aspect.  It is very easy to travel in Morocco, the road system fairly new and well signed for African standards.  The accommodations, both hotels and campgrounds were cheap and very clean.  We fell in love with the Moroccan food and their freshly squeezed Orange Juice.  Morocco feels like Spain 30 years ago, but it is moving in vast steps toward modernization.  Of course this is sad for those of us, who love the Morocco of today with its Berber traditions and Muslim architecture.  There are still places in the High Atlas Mountains untouched by the Western World.  The advantage of Morocco is its close proximity with Europe.  You can make Morocco as adventures as you want. The option is yours, as it offers both some tough off-roading in remote places from high mountain passes to the open desert.  If that is too adventurous take a wander through the souks of Fes and Marrakech or immerse yourself in the relaxed atmosphere of Chefchaouen.  With tears in our eyes we left the African Continent behind, knowing in our heart that we will be back.

Our Favourite:

- Medina of Fes

- The Jemaa el-Fna of Marrakech

- The Ksour and Gorges of the Atlas Mountains

- Walled town of Essoauira

- Blue and White Walls of Chefchaouen

Fuel Cost: Northern Morocco 11.50DH/litre ($1.55CDN/litre) and

Western Sahara 5.50DH/litre ($0.75CDN/litre) for Unleaded Fuel.

Accommodations: Camping (21) nights 60 to 85DH/night ($8.00 to $11.50CDN/night) and six (6) nights hotel between 40 to 250DH/night ($5.50 to $34.00CDN/night).

Exchange Rate: 7.4Dirham (DH) = $1.00CDN

Border Formality Costs: Moroccan Visa free- valid for 90 days at border

Motorcycle Customs free – Carnet de Passage not required.

June 18, 2008.  After riding a very rough section between the Mauritania Border Post and the Morocco Border Post at Al-Gargara through a mine covered field, our first stop is to register at the police.  The line up for the immigration office is huge.  It is total chaos, one small window and no organization.  Our passports are placed on a table and nothing happens for two (2) hours.  We expected an easy border crossing into Morocco, but it turned out to be one of the longest and most frustrating in Africa.  Finally we receive our free three (3)-month Visa for Morocco, but then customs is taking its sweet time.  Carnets are no longer required.  Temporary importation documents are completed.  It takes another hour before a military person with a dog sniffs and searches the motorcycles.  The temporary importation of the motorcycles is only for one (1) month and can be extended at another customs office in Marrakech or other large Moroccan city, but it would mean spending hours finding the place and completing more paperwork.  As always it makes not much sense to have a three (3)-month Visa and only one (1) month for the motorcycle.  Nobody asks for insurance and after a final check of all our paperwork at the gate we are in.  We later find out that the security was increased only that morning, due to a failed smuggling incident the previous day.  A French tourist tried to smuggle a truck load of cigarettes into/out-of the country, but was caught.  The head wind is back and accompanies us all the way to Dakhla.  The road follows the coast.  Long deserted beaches line the coast.  The Atlantic Ocean does not look very inviting.  A shipwreck makes for a picture opportunity.  At the 70km mark after the border we see a welcoming sight; a gas station.  If it wasn't for a strategically placed gas station every 250km we would have had difficulties making the distance on the motorcycle.  En-route are several check-points where our passport information is recorded.  Dakhla lies on a peninsula, a kite surfer paradise as the "hurricane" winds never stop.  After 327km of extreme head wind we pull into the Centre Surf Extreme et Peche Campsite.  Setting up the tent is out of the question and we take a wooden bungalow for 200DH/night ($27.00CDN/night).  The separate bathroom facilities are very primitive and power is supplied by a generator and for another 250DH ($34.00CDN) we have Chicken and French Fries.   We realize later that this is one of our more expressive meals and accommodations in Morocco, mostly due to the remote location.  Morocco has very cheap good food and accommodations.  Babs and Helmut do not make it to the campsite that night, we figured as much.  We later heard that it took them seven (7) hours to get through the border formalities into Morocco.

June 19, 2008.  We mount the motorcycle early to get as many miles behind us as possible.  The never ending desert, sand and wind were starting to get to us just a little bit.  Dakhla to El-Aaium, also called Laayoune, is 542km of nothingness, except the occasional check-stop.  In El-Aauim we stay in a hotel for 150DH/night ($20.00CDN) complete with washroom and TV (French only).  The motorcycles were parked in a room on the base level.  A pizzeria is located close by and even produced some yummy Pizza.

June 20, 2008.  Another long day of riding lay ahead.  Only a few kilometers north of Laayoune on the coast lies Tarfaya.  We decide to detour into the village and see the Dar Mar, a 200 years plus old castle.  Here we say Good-Bye to the Western Sahara, cheap gasoline ($0.75CDN/litre) and military/police check stops.  We continue northwards to Tan Tan, Guelmim and just before Agadir turn westwards to Taroudannt.  After a full day of 700km we reach Taroudannt, a walled town, and enter into a labyrinth of streets in search for accommodation.  We end up parking the motorcycles in the main open square in front of an ancient hotel.  Our room is 40DH/night ($5.40CDN/night) and the window of the tiny room overlooks the square below, which is surrounded by cafes and men drinking coffee.  After depositing our gear in the room we head for some street food of Schwarma and French Fries.

June 21, 2008.  Bright and early we start our day with a stroll to the main entrance gate of the walled town and decide to walk the circumference of the 7km long wall.  The wall and towers are one of the best preserved in Morocco.  Inside the walls the town is very clean.  It is another story once we get outside and away from the Touristy area.  More like a garbage dump.  The walls are also in poor repairs away from the main area.  Locals have dug holes into the side walls to create a short cut for pedestrians and scooters.  The haze is too thick and we can only see the outline of the High Atlas Mountains in the distance.  For breakfast we stop at a Pastry Coffee shop at the main square and watch the locals.  The remainder of the day we relax and move into a room with a bathroom for 70DH/night ($9.40CDN/night).  A brave Mike ventures into the streets of the medina to find a barber.  A haircut is way overdue, but due to communication difficulties and past experiences of butchered haircuts, an experience Mike does not look forward to.   As it turns out Mike ends up with a slight hint of a Mohawk.  In the afternoon we stroll through the souk and return to the same restaurant for Schwarma and French Fries.

June 22, 2008.  We back track from Taroudannt to Agadir and follow the coast on the P8 to Essaouira.  The road winds its way past beautiful sandy beaches.  The only drawback is the cold Atlantic Ocean causes mist and fog along the entire coastline, which makes swimming a bit unappealing.  In Essaouira the sun burns off the mist and fog to give-way to a beautiful fortified town. Our original plan was to take a room inside the fortification, but then we were told at the Bab Sebaa (Gate) that vehicles are not allowed within town walls.  Only 500m from the Bab Doukkala (Gate) we find a very nice hotel for 200DH/night ($27.00CDN/night).  The motorcycles are parked inside secure parking shed for 30DH/night.  The room was very clean, newly painted, with bathroom and TV.  Late afternoon we head inside the walled town along the busy stalls into the heart of the medina.  It is a picture perfect place.  For supper we have two (2) huge stuffed Kefta and veggie sandwiches and French Fries for 55DH ($7.40CDN) total including drinks.

June 23, 2008.  Our stroll into the walled town of Essaouira the previous day had given us a good idea for picture opportunity and as always early morning and late evening sun gives the best light for pictures.  Here we are, it seems the only early birds out to explore the town.  On the south-eastern point of Essaouira at the port are two (2) sqalas, also called sea bastions.  We watch at the dock as the fishermen return with their morning catch.  The outer ramparts can be climbed and has canons facing the sea.  Essaouira is known for its wood work.  Different wood like ebony and citrus are used for inlays of thuya made boxes.  We spent hours walking from one shop to another.  The amount of work that goes into creating these artworks would make it impossible too afford in Canada.  Here we can purchase boxes from 25DH ($3.40CDN).  Better quality work goes for a bit more.  Chess sets, huge coffee tables and cabinets are made out of thuya and covered in integrate inlayed designs.  We refuel at a bakery with some pastry and continue into the medina.  An afternoon rest at the hotel gives us enough energy to return again in the evening for supper into the midst of the medina.  At the hotel the movie Babel is playing on TV, very fitting.  We had not seen it before leaving on this trip.  A movie that held our attention for quite some time after viewing it.  We could very well relate to the statement it was trying to make.  We had experienced first hand through our travels to these so called "dangerous countries" the western media's misinterpretation and misrepresentation of certain events and incidences.  Reality of life in Africa is so very different from what we had pictured prior to setting out 10 months ago.

June 24, 2008.  The road P10 from Essaouira east to Marrakech is uneventful.  Driving around Marrakech is easy, or maybe we just appreciate some type of rules and traffic control.  We had a bit of difficulties finding the entrance to the GPS way pointed campground, called Le Relais de Marrakech.  The campground is owned by a Frenchman and has European standards printed all over it.  The campgrounds highlight is its beautiful swimming pool with lawn chairs.  The only drawback is that the campsite has no shade.  We set up the tent in the blazing sun and heat.  A nice facility for 60DH/night ($8.10CDN).  At the restaurant we had Chef Salad, convenient but not cheap.  Our first stop is the swimming pool.  By coincidence Babs and Helmut, who we had last seen in Mauritania, arrive in the afternoon.  On the way to the grocery store we flag down a sportbike rider to inquire for a place to purchase new tires.  The patch placed on my rear tire in Mali sprung a leak and we had been repumping the tire every morning.  Even though the guy did not speak any English we communicate by sign language our requirements as so many times before.  He told us to follow him and led us to a small motorcycle accessory store.  They had a few tires in stock, but nothing that fit the GS.  We were told that it would take 2-3 days to get tires from Casablanca.  We discussed our options and decided to see if there was another place in Marrakech that had tires in the morning.  We pick up some groceries at the market and return to our campsite.

June 25, 2008.  In the morning we looked for a motorcycle shop and tires.  We did find a Yamaha representative who did not have tires but gave us directions for a shop who might.  It is amazing that we actually found this place.  Again, the shop consists of no more then a window in a wall. It is looking slim for tires in Marrakech and we decide to try our luck in Casablanca. But first we had to experience the wonders of Marrakech.  At 3:30pm we, in tow with Babs and Helmut, take a taxi to the walled town and are dropped off close to the Bab Nkob (Gate).  The old town of Marrakech is surrounded by a 19km long wall and several monumental gates.  Marrakech looks most spectacular in the winter time when the High Atlas Mountains are snow covered.  The white peaks in contrast to the green oasis of Marrakech is awe inspiring.  Unfortunately our timing is off and we are at the start of the summer.  Day time temperatures are now in the 40Deg Celsius range and the haze is too thick to see the mountains, except for a faint outline.  We arrange with the taxi driver to be picked up again at 10pm and start walking.  At the Koutaoubia Mosque we are able to see the Minaret, entrance to the Courtyard and the foundation of an earlier mosque.  As non-Muslims we are not allowed to enter, we continue to the Bab er Robb (Gate) and enter the Saadian Tombs for 20DH/person ($1.48CDN).  It displays some of the finest Islamic Architecture in Morocco.  These tombs date from the 16th to 18th Century.  The two (2) mausoleums are of Ahmed el-Mansour and his mother Lalla Messaouda.  From here we wander to the famous Place Jemaa el-Fna.  UNESCO had declared this special square a World Heritage site.  It comes to life after sunset, too early so we continue into the labyrinth of the souk.  As we had been to the Middle East we were quite familiar with souks.  Not surprising the Moroccan souks are mostly geared to tourism.  Helmut and Babs had not experienced one yet.  Equipped with the DK Guidebook we were able to navigate our way through different areas of the souk.  The Rahba Kedima "Old Square" was quite interesting as different type of fetishes were on display.  Some would be difficult to take back into the western countries, like Leopard skin as they are illegal and protected animals.  The Kissaries was filled with leather items ranging from wallets, bags to jackets.  All very good quality and pending on your negotiating skills quite cheap.  Morocco is one of those countries were we would require a trailer to fit everything we would like to purchase.  Another highlight is the Brass, Silver and Gold souk.  The light sparkles and reflects off the metal in the dark souks.  Amazingly we did not buy anything.  Morocco makes the best fresh orange juice ever and we ended up returning four (4) times to get another glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.  Sunset was still another hour away and we made ourselves comfortable at a terrace restaurant overlooking the Jemaa el-Fna.  Small open-air restaurants emerge in the midst of the square.  More and more spectators, performers and locals start to fill the area.  Cobra snakes move in trance to the music of the snake charmers.  Monkeys perform tricks.  Story tellers keep huge crowds entertained.  As the last trace of day light disappears, the open air-restaurants light up.  Smoke from cooking illuminates the sky above giving the area a mystic atmosphere.  We make our way to the food stalls.  Babs and Helmut stop off at the snail booth to get a couple bowls of snails.  Sorry we could not do it.  Starving we try out everything that looks like it is not seafood.  Mixed meat (Kefta etc) and bastilla.  Time was flying by and we had to get back to our rendezvous point with the taxi driver at 10pm.  Exhausted we return to the campsite.  The taxi rate into town and return is only 150DH ($20.00CDN) total.

June 26, 2008.  My Michelin Anakee rear tire was disappearing fast at over 20,000km, it was time for new ones.  Not big believers of toll roads we decided due to the condition of the tires to stay on them from Marrakech to Casablanca.  For 120DH ($20.00CDN) we cover the 300km in no time.  Around 28km south of Casablanca on the coastal road we set up camp at the Hawai Campsite for 60DH/night ($8.10CDN).  The worst campsite we had in Morocco.  We had purchased a camping guide at the last campsite in Marrakech.  It is called Camping Führer Marokko-Mauretanien 2008 by Edith Kohlbach.  A great book which lists all the campsites, even free ones with GPS coordinates (German only).  The picture for the Hawai Campsite seems to be only two (2) years old, but with no maintenance the place has deteriorated to a campsite we would not recommend.  We actually remain on site for three (3) nights, only because we were too lazy to take down the tent and move to another campsite a few kilometers down the road.  Mike had to stand guard in front of the women bathroom when I had to take a shower to avoid visits from men.  No doors.  In the afternoon we ventured into Casablanca.  A very modern looking city, we cruise into the center in search of tires.  Within a couple of hours we had found the BMW Dealership.  It gave us a chance to ride along the waterfront were all the beaches and fancy clubs are located.  A very trendy area.  At the BMW shop we are told that they do not have tires in stock and it would take (20) days to order them in.  Instead they gave us an address for a shop who had for sure two (2) sets of Metzler Tourance called Motoshop.  As it is just before 6pm we are too late to take a swing over to that shop.

June 27, 2008.  We required a day of rest.  The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is closed to non-Muslims on Friday and therefore a perfect excuse for us to take a day off. As we hang out around the tent, eating the usual healthy food of chips, cookies and Coca Cola, locals bought us on a tray food.  Very good food consisting of Tajine, Salad, Potatoes and Bread.  They must have felt sorry for us.

June 28, 2008.  We return to Casablanca and after only an hour and with the help of a friendly taxi driver we found the motorcycle parts shop.  The owner was great, English speaking and we got two (2) sets of front and rear Metzler Tourance installed in 1 1/2 hours for 6500DH ($880.00CDN) including new valve stems.  We hung out at a Cafe, had pastry and watched people.  The mechanic of the shop was all excited to have helped us out and communicated to us in sign language to take it easy for the first few kilometers on the new tires.  Very sweet, I do not think he understood how many new tires we have been through.  In the afternoon we park the motorcycles in front of the Mosque of Hassan II.  Entrance to the amazing mosque is 120DH/person ($16.00CDN/person).  Guided tours are the only way one can see the mosque and they are in the five (5) main languages.  This mosque is the third largest religious building in the world after the mosques in Mecca and Medina.  The 200m high Minaret rises up impressively with a back drop of the Atlantic Ocean.  Nothing has been spared on its grandness.  Its highlight is the Prayer Hall which can accommodate 25,000 people.  The roof above opens up to help with air circulation when big crowds are present.  Below the prayer hall is the beautiful hammam (bath) one for women and one for men.  In the evening we returned to our old faithful restaurant for Tajine.  It is located on the coastal road in the midst of freshly slaughtered meat, vegetables stores and a tire change place.   The best Tajine in Morocco, it was delicious for only 40 to 60DH meal (for two people) ($5.50 to $8.00CDN).  Never shy on trying local food we also had a sweet egg based pancake for desert.

June 29, 2008.  Only 80km south of our "beautiful" campsite lies El-Jadida.  A town settled by the Portuguese in 1502.  The fort they constructed still remains to this day with a few modifications.  Our main reason for visiting the coastal town was to see the Portuguese cistern build underground around 1514.  Entrance is 10DH/person ($1.35CDN/person).  It is a great place to visit and wonderful for taking spooky pictures especially as there is no tourists.  We finish our tour of the town by walking along the ramparts and on top of the remaining bastions.  The fog and mist comes in from the Atlantic in waves covering the blue sky.  We return to the campsite and our favourite Tajine restaurant.  We did not use the pool as it was always overcrowded by locals.

June 30, 2008.  It felt nice to have new tires, though not balanced, technology like that does not exist in many third world countries.  We rode from our Hawai campsite on the S103 to Berrechid.  In town we got lost and had to ride through cultivated fields to get to were we wanted.  We continued to Khouribga, turned onto S133 to Fleih Ben Salah.  The road joined up with the P24 halfway between El Kelaa Srarhna and Beni Mellal.  We turn on the 1811 road that winds its way over two (2) passes into the Middle Atlas Mountains.  The 35km stretch takes us an hour as the road is very twisty and passes through a beautiful country.  We stayed in Cascades D' Ouyoud at the De France Hotel for 200DH/night ($27.00CDN). The bathroom facilities were outside our room.  The swimming pool was not yet filled.  Next week, in Shalah, is the answer to when it would be full .  Too bad as it was very hot and then on the other hand a blessing as we ended up visiting the waterfall instead.  We had expected a small waterfall, we were wrong.  The guy from the hotel reception led us to the edge of the waterfall drop-off.  The hotel is empty, and as we are the only tourists he is able to show us a bit around without wanting any money.  There no safe guards or railings at the look-out points.  It is truly amazing, no fencing and the water tumbles down from a 100m cliff into the canyon below into Wadi el-Abid.  We are able to walk along the top of the waterfall and visit a mill only a couple of meters from the cliff.  The water moves a gear connected to a grindstone on which corn or barley is ground to flour.  It is fascinating to watch and see the water rush underneath the building.  A well kept path leads to a viewpoint opposite the waterfall and then to the bottom of the canyon.  The pathway is lined with little shops selling trinkets and small restaurants with great views.  We crossed the stream below and walked along the Wadi el-Abid gorge.  There are several natural pools along the way and we take the opportunity to get into our swimwear and cool off in the swimming hole called Africa.  On the return we walked up the steep steps and had a break for the great freshly squeezed orange juice while taking in a spectacular view of the waterfall.  We had preordered our supper, but when we showed up in the hotel restaurant they had forgotten about the order.  Again a blessing as we could head back to the restaurants that line the path down to the waterfall base.  We have Tajine, Moroccan Salad and Pancake for desert with an incredible view. A monkey came to visit and before we could react he had stolen our bread.  A perfect ending to a perfect day.  The night was very hot and we got little sleep as the room had no fan or air conditioning.

July 01, 2008.  We back track on the twisty 1811 to the P24 and then pass through El Kelaa Srarhna to Marrakech.  A by-pass road allows us to avoid entering Marrakech and we continue on P31 toward the High Atlas Mountains.  We love the mountains and had been looking forward to this leg of the journey through the High Atlas into the Berber Country.  An amazing road with two (2) passes leads from Marrakech to Ait Benhaddou, our final destination.  But first we enjoy the twisty road up each mountain pass and the surrounding scenery.  The first pass is 1470m called the Tizi-n-Ait Imger and followed by the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass, altitude of 2260m.  It is the highest paved road in Morocco.  The top has a nice view, even though it is pretty hazy, we are able to see the full scale of the High Atlas Mountains.  Temperatures at this altitude are pleasant.  Approx. 26km before Ouaryarate on the P31 we turned to ride 8km to Ait Benhaddou.  We set up our camp at the shadeless, but with a nice swimming pool, campground called Defat Kasbah Camping. It is located 2km past Ait Benhaddou toward Tamdakht for 75DH/night ($10.00CDN/night).  By now we are hooked on the Moroccan food.  For 200DH ($27.00CDN) we have a meal of Chicken Tajine and Moroccan Salad prepared without having to ride to town.  No pop was available, but only a short walk away we found a small store with no name cold drinks.

July 02, 2008.  We ride into Ait Benhaddau at sunrise to capture the perfect light.  The ksar was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is used, due to its uniqueness, for films sets.  Before venturing into the ancient town we stop for pictures at a vantage point opposite the banks of Wadi Mellah.  We park the motorcycle in the new village of Ait Benhaddou as there is no official road across the Wadi to the other side of the bank.  At the eastern side a new film set is being constructed and we wander around the small alleyways, between earth houses to the top of the hill where only a few walls remain evidence of a fortress.  The ancient village is still inhabited by a few people.  For 10DH ($1.35CDN) we are able to visit and climb the towers of a Kasbah.  This architectural style is fascinating to us and reminds us very much of Yemen.  At the campsite we disassemble the tent and ride to Ouaryarate.  After a bank visit for cash, we stopped for a picture of the Taourirt.  Turning on the P32 we start to parallel the High Atlas Mountains to the west.  In Skoura, we take another picture of a well restored Kasbah.  It is even featured on the back of the 50DH Moroccan bill.  The tent goes up again only 1 km past El-Kellaa M' Gouna at the L Ksar Kaissar Campground.  A huge campsite (~100 sites) totally empty with covered camping spots.  It seems neglected and under new management.  Camping is 75DH/night plus 50DH/person ($10.00/night plus $6.65CDN/person) to use the incredibly nice swimming pool.  Of course we can not resist the pool and hang out for the afternoon.  As the town is only a few kilometers from the campsite we find a restaurant on the main strip of El-Kelaa M' Goune.  We sit with all the locals facing the traffic and watch a continuous stream of people walking by.  Supper is Moroccan Salad and Tajine.  No we are not yet sick of it.

July 03, 2008.  Keeping the tent set up we decide on a day trip to the Dades Gorge.  The Gorge starts after turning at Boumalne toward the High Atlas Mountains.  The sun starts to peek over the top of the mountains and cliffs illuminating the unique rock formations that can be found along the way.  The first Kasbah stands imposing at a bend in the road called Ait Mouted Kasbah.  The wadi that winds its way along the bottom of the gorge is lush in fig, almond and walnut trees.  The road climbs by several switchbacks from the bottom of the gorge to the top, allowing for a perfect picture.  The canyon walls are only meters apart in this section and the walls are hundreds of meters high.  Further along the gorge gives way to an open plateau and we ride as far as Msemrir where the tarmac ends.  We find a restaurant that serves us delicious sizzling omelette in a frying pan.  The food in Morocco is way too good.  Enjoying our ride back to the campsite, we laze around the pool for the remainder of the day and return to El-Kelaa M' Goune for some Kefta, French Fries and Chef Salad.

July 04, 2008.  Packing up the tent yet again, as so many times previously on this trip, we continue to ride past Boumalne du Dades to Tinerhir.  At the 8.2km point, on the Todra Gorge road we find our next campsite.  The Le Soleil is a beautiful campsite in the midst of a wadi, with plenty of shade, very clean bathroom facilities and a nice swimming pool for 65DH/night ($8.80CDN/night).  Yet again this campground is totally void of other campers.  There is no point to waste our energy on any activities in the afternoon as the heat of the day is unbearable.  Hence, perfect for the swimming pool.  The hard life.  We preordered supper at the campsite restaurant as we did not want to ride back into town (a whole 8.2km away).  Hey we are on the motorcycles every day for the last 10 months.  Supper is Kefta Tajine, our least favourite of the Tajine family. 

July 05, 2008.  The road through the Todra Gorge is beautiful, but the road beyond into the higher plateaus away from the buzz of tourism is what we have come for.  A river and road squeezes its way through the gorge where 300m high cliffs block the sunlight.  We are early and avoid most of the tourists, that is if there are tourists.  It is July and we have not yet seen the large crowds of Tourists we expected, a pleasant surprise.  There are lots of police checkpoints at random locations, they do not bother with tourists and we have been waved through ever since we passed Agadir.  The Western Sahara is a different story.  The police have been very helpful and friendly in Northern Morocco.  They have been instructed to not bother tourists and it shows.  After the gorge we continue on the road higher and deeper into the High Atlas.  We stop at Berber villages, like Tamtattouchte, take the occasional rough road through a small village.  Children and people are excited to see us and wave.  The road we are on is not shown on our map or GPS and it is an adventure.  With a full fuel tank at the start of the day we decide to continue on the road to see where it leads us.  Our only precaution that we would turn around at 150km should we not run into a gas station prior to that.  Beautiful scenery unfolds in front of us, doted with mountain villages and dilapidated ksour.  People are working the fields and donkeys carry huge loads.  Occasionally we would see an ancient looking grandma with a massive load of scrub or hay on her back, bent over from the weight and walking miles away from a village.  The urge to stop and help is always there.  What a different life.  We enjoy days like this where there is no destination only exploration.  After a few hours we come upon a direction sign and our first bearing to where we were.  Instead of turning around we continued, we estimated 25km to Goulmima, but it actually was 60km of twisty road.  At one point we almost had to turn around as the road under construction was blocked by a huge pile of gravel.  A vehicle was unable to pass through; taxis on either side would shuttle people between villages.  We were able to ride on a small ledge around it.  Once in Goulmima, the mountains disappear to give way to the desert.  The 250km round trip took us all day and was one of our highlights of Morocco.  Though there were many highlights.  For supper we tried out the restaurant at the Atlas campsite.

July 06, 2008.  We came to the realization that we would have to return to the High Atlas one day with a 4-wheel drive vehicle, as there were places still to be explored inaccessible by the GS.  We are not sad that we could not see these place now as it gives us an opportunity to return.  We will never run out of things to do, but rather we will run out of time.  This was all the time we had allotted to this area and we rode from the Todra Gorge, to Tinerhir, to Goulmina to Er-Rachidia.  A mostly flat and straight road, to the west the Atlas Mountains are barely visible in the haze, and to the east the open desert.  From Er-Rachidia the road climbed again in altitude, past a water body reservoir and over barren rolling mountains.  The road through Wadi Ziz also passes the Ziz gorge and the famous Tunnel de Foum-Yabel (or Tunnel du Legionnaire).  A couple of Ksar can be seen from the road.  Later we saw pictures of unique mountain ksour which are located south of Marrakech.  Not many tourists visit these as the locations are remote and hard to find without a guide.  We will be back to explore more of these rock dwellings.  After refuelling in Midelt we set up camp a few kilometres further at Camping Timnay.  Large cedar trees give lots of shade.  The swimming pool is not included in the cost of the camping.  But at this point we are addicted to spending a few hours each day relaxing at the pool to escape the heat.  Unfortunately it is Sunday and the pool overcrowded by locals.  Supper was yet again delicious.  People were concerned about us loosing weight in Africa, no worries here.  The timing of our visit to Morocco is perfect in regards to the temperatures, or maybe we had become accustomed to the heat after Mali.

July 07, 2008.  Only a few hours of riding lay ahead.  Leaving the campground we turned off the P21 a few kilometers further down the road onto a less travelled yet still narrow, but paved, highway with the occasional washed out section.  Traffic was non-existent, small villages were tucked between mountains and the fields were wind swept.  It was cool in the morning and we even climbed a couple of passes, which are snow covered in the wintertime.  We drop in altitude again before reaching Sefrou, another walled town with gates, but we have to continue, as we can not see everything on this trip.  There are a couple of recommended campgrounds on the outskirts of Fes.  Our pick is Diamant Vert, which is difficult to find without GPS.  The campsite is well kept and butts onto a huge outdoor swimming pool and waterslide complex, which use is included in the 85DH/night ($11.50CDN) camping cost.  As we drive along the campsite in search for the perfect camping spot, we see Babs and Helmut who we had not run into since Marrakech 13 days ago.  Helmut opens up a bottle of Rose wine locally produced and we catch up and compare on where we had been.  This had been Day 4 in Fes for them.  A day later and we would have missed them.  The swimming complex was overcrowded by locals, we estimated about 400 people.  Six (6) lifeguards alone would stand guard at the swimming pool.  It was hard to find a spot on the grass or a place to enter the pool without someone jumping on top of you.  We did not spend much time in the water.  We had Schwarma and French Fries for supper and called it a day.

July 08, 2008.  Instead of visiting Fes first we decide to ride to Volubilis approx. 60km from Fes.  We leave a good-bye note for Babs and Helmut, as we depart by 7am.  The campsite's location is perfect for several day excursions like Volubilis, Meknes and Fes itself.  After the scenic way through Fes we find the turn off for the P3 toward Sidi Kacem.  The first bit of road is pretty rough, but then turns into a newly paved road with sweeping corners.  There is no signage for this archaeological site, but we do have the GPS coordinates.  Volubilis is the best preserved Roman City in Morocco and we had been looking forward to this visit (10DH/person or $1.35CDN/person).  It dates back to the 3rd Century BC, but only started to prosper in the 2nd and 3rd Century AD.  Most ruins uncovered are from that period or later.  Highlights of the site are the Basilica, the Triumphal Arch and the Mosaics.  The mosaics are beautiful and some like the Bathing Nymphs are in amazing shape.  The reconstruction of an olive oil press displays how the device worked in Roman times.  After exploring the site for a couple of hours we stopped for a Moroccan Salad and Cheese Sandwich at a restaurant close by.  The owner's parents live in Quebec, Canada.  Instead of returning on the P28, we take the scenic route S306, which allows for a good vantage point of Moulay Idriss.  White houses cover a hill completely and stands in contrast to the surrounding brown/green hills.  Continuing on the S306 we see more cliff dwellings before joining back up with the P3.  We return to the campsite in the afternoon, after stopping off at the grocery store.

July 09, 2008.  Successfully we find the direct route to the Place Bou Jeloud from the campground without getting lost.  Actually we arrived in front of a gate, not sure where we where, but then got confirmation by an officer that we were at the right place.  We park the motorcycle in front of the Gate and start exploring Fes el-Bali, the historic medina.  Though it is a maze of small alleyways a guide is not required, as throughways are well signed with the occasional full scale map and each historic building is indicated.  Fes was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, due to its important religious and cultural history.  The medina has one of the best souks we have been to (besides Sana in Yemen).  It is a magical place.  We start our walk through the souk at the Bab Bou Jeloud (Gate); it is mainly downhill from here.  Most stores are still closed or are in the process of opening.  Our first destination is Fondouk el-Nejjarine, but we are too early as it does not open until 10am.  Instead we are approached by a man who asks if we want to see the tanneries, right around the corner.  Why not, it was one of the must see places of Fes on our list.  We had the best viewing point from high above onto the tanneries.  It was so fascinating that we could have spent hours watching each process from removing of hair from the skin, soaking the skin in vats, then drying and rinsing it and at last dying the leather.  The smell is pretty appalling, but with the help of some peppermint leaves we were able to mask some of the smell.  From here we also had a panoramic view of the city and the Merinid Tombs.  In the nearby leather shop we withstood the urge to purchase a leather jacket.  The quality of the leather is outstanding, instead we ended up at a carpet place, where the carpet was weaven right in front of us and we purchased one for 350DH ($47.00CDN).  Somehow I would make it fit on the motorcycle.  After spending a good hour in the tanneries, we returned to the Fondouk el-Nejjarine.  It is a shame that not more people visit the inside of this well restored Fondouk.  A fondouk is like a hotel and in past times provided food, rest and shelter.  The rooms of the fondouk now display the museum of wood.  As always show casing beautifully handcrafted wood creations.  The roof top serves refreshment and we rest our feet while sipping Coke.  One of the medersa that can be visited by non-Muslims is the Bou Inania Medersa.  Built in between 1350 and 1355, it is the only medersa in Morocco that has a minbar and a minaret.  It is a fine example of Moroccan architecture.  The stucco and wood work are outstanding.  A medersa is a cultural and religious establishment, for the study of the Muslim religion.  We continued our walk through the different type of souks and finished our exploration of Fes at a roof top restaurant overlooking the medina.  For a 170DH ($23.00CDN) we had Vegetarian Tajine, Moroccan Salad and a sliced orange each with loads of sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on it.  Another Moroccan delicacy.  We had seen what we wanted to see and returned to the campsite.

July 10, 2008.  Instead of continuing onwards, we decide to remain another day in Fes and spent a day at the internet cafe uploading the pictures and journal of our Mali adventure.  Once the pictures are on the website we are relieved, as it is another safeguard of backing up our pictures.  Our external 120Gig Hard drive started to give us trouble and we have started using the 40Gig Hard drive of the computer for storage.  Luckily it was the end of the trip.  Besides the website and Hard drive we back-up all the pictures on DVD.  Everything is slowly breaking down, after the abuse of Africa.  The DVD burner only burns at slow speed, the tent zippers are treated with great care (not always closing), the blow up pillows started leaking at the valve, zippers went on motorcycle clothes, buckles broke and the list goes on.  Most of the times we just laugh when another item breaks and add it to the list.  It amazes us that it made it this far.  If we are tired how does the equipment and motorcycle feel?  We finally have stopped taking the Malaria pills after popping a blue pill everyday for the last eight (8) months and are probably one of few that did not catch it.  Good-bye to the side effects.

July 11, 2008.  We left Fes and took the country road S302 to Ketama through the Rif Mountains.  The road and scenery is beautiful.  Between Ketama and Chefchaouen we run into Babs and Helmut, who are travelling the opposite way.  We pull over on the side of the road and share a bottle of Coca Cola.  This area is known for its Marijuana and almost every corner or anywhere we stop to take a picture we are approached and asked if we want to buy some.  It is a bit annoying after awhile.  The purchasing or selling of marijuana is illegal in Morocco, but the Rif Mountains are famous for its grow operations.  They are in open view to the public.  The road leads through Cedar forest, the smell and scenery reminding us of home.  We arrive in Chefchaouen mid-afternoon and set up camp at the only campsite close to the Hotel Asmaa.  The campground is located at the top of the hill, overlooking Chefchaouen.  Steps lead into the old part of Chefchaouen.  It takes five (5) minutes to descend the steps and (20) minutes to climb back up.  Especially after eating too much.  We can not resist an evening peek into town and stroll into the blue and white walled UNESCO World Heritage site.  Instead of having typical Moroccan food we end up with Pizza. 

July 12, 2008.  In the morning, equipped with the camera, before any stores open, we wander the streets of Chefchaouen.  A unique atmosphere exists in this town.  Alleyways and house walls are painted blue and white; sometimes the streets are only a couple of meters wide.  Vehicles are not allowed within the walled town and would not even be able to fit.  Any equipment or material is moved the old fashion way of donkey with a cart.  Doorways are beautifully decorated.  In only a couple of hours we have taken over 200 pictures.  We reach the Bab El Ansar (Gate) and watch women clean carpets and clothes from the spring of Ras el-Ma.  Facilities were set up for women to hand wash their clothes.  Several mills are powered by this water supply as well.  We make our way to the Souika (little market) and finally end up at the Kasbah.  After the "great" climb back to the campsite we take a well deserved rest for the afternoon.  The campsite was out of water and the problem was not fixed until the next day.  The bathroom facilities were new, but had only cold water.  Refreshing, especially in the morning.  In the evening we returned into town.  A Music Festival was in full swing and we ate close to the Kasbah and stage.  Here we were treated to the second best Tajine (Beef) in Morocco, complete with hot Moroccan Salad and delicious Fruit Salad for only 65DH/person ($8.80CDN/person).  On our way back up the steep hill we are invited for a demonstration of carpets.  A perfect excuse to digest the food first and enjoy the company of a pleasant Moroccan.  We ended up not buying anything.

July 13, 2008.  Our time in Morocco is coming to an end and we need to decide our route through Europe.  A day of internet research is required.  The campsite has internet and we first upload the pictures and journal for Gambia, Senegal and Mauritania.  Then after posting, we get started on the research.  With limited time available we concentrate on approx. ten (10) days in Portugal and Mike comes up with the great idea of riding the Tour de France Bicycle route in the France Pyrenees and Alps.  We are flying back to Canada on August 21, 2008 and require two (2) weeks in Germany to take care of the storage and repair of the motorcycles until the next trip and to visit family and friends.  Our goal is to be in Germany on August 07, that leaves us 24 days, which seems a lot, but for any type of serious exploration of Europe not a chance.  We type in Goggle "Highlights of Portugal" and visit the UNESCO World Heritage website.  The list of things to see and do in Portugal can not be fit into ten (10) days, for that matter not even 24 days would be long enough.  We pick the things that interest us most.  A ten (10) day itinerary for Portugal unfolds.  For Spain and France, we noted the UNESCO World Heritage sites en-route to Germany.  Mike was busy downloading the GPS tracks, (beginning and end points) of the best motorcycle roads with five (5) stars from the www.bestbikingroads.com website.  David, who had taken part in the BMW off road course in Hecklingen, Germany with us, had given us the website as he is the webmaster.  It is time to enjoy some of the great roads of Europe.  A plan was forming and we got excited to hit Europe.  We wander into town to visit the excellent restaurant and have our last meal of Tajine.  We would truly miss the Moroccan food.

July 14, 2008.  Leaving Chefchaouen we were not sure where we would set up camp in the evening.  Our first goal was to make it to Ceuta.  As we make our way past Tetouan, the sky started to cloud over.  Ceuta is actually Spanish territory, though still on the African Continent.  Two (2) km south of Ceuta we proceed through Moroccan customs and immigration.  The line up of vehicles is huge and we are surprised that with a volume of this magnitude there has not been a more efficient system set up.  It starts to rain.  Being on the motorcycles we are able to make our way past most of the line up.  Our motorcycles and passports are stamped out.  At the police check-stop we are waved through.  The Spanish Border Post looks at our passports and waves us through.  No entry stamp, nothing.  We loose an hour time entering into the European time zone.  At 11:15am we purchase the ferry ticket for 142 Euro ($240.00CDN) including both motorcycles and us.  The ferry leaves at 11:30am, as always we are cutting it close and arrive last at the boarding point.  We get into line behind the other cars and watch them board.  At this point we both got emotional.  Tears were flowing down my face.  We had accomplished what seemed at times impossible. Nine (9) months around Africa.  An amazing adventure that both of us will not forget.  At that moment it hit us both that we had to say Good-bye to the African Continent.  32 countries and 58,000km in Africa alone.  On board we watch as the ship leaves the harbour and passes the large statue of Hercules.  Good-bye Africa.

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