Libya Trip Journal from Oct. 18 to 24, 2007

To return to the Libya Pictures.

Country: Libya

Duration: Oct. 18 to 24, 2007

Distance Traveled in the Country: Approx. 1900km on the motorcycles.

Most Memorable Impressions:

We liked the Libyan people, who were friendly and helpful.  They were truly excited to see us and our motorcycles wherever we went.  Unfortunately travel in Libya is restricted and independent travel was not possible at the time of our visit.  It is difficult and frustrating for us to travel this way, where we are unable to see a country for what it is, as any escort distorts the real country.   In addition, the cost of the mandatory escort made this country the most expensive country we have visited, more expensive then any European country. Libya has a lot to offer and once the travel restrictions are lifted it will be a pleasure to explore.

Our Favourites:

-         - Ancient Greek City of Cyrene and its' amazing Greek Bath

-         - Sabratha's Theatre

-         - Apollonia

Fuel Cost: 0.16 Dinar/litre ($0.14CDN/litre) for High Octane Leaded Fuel (no unleaded available). 

Accommodations: Hotels from 30 to 60 Dinar/night ($25.00 to $50.00CDN/night) and Camping around 5 to 10 Dinar/night ($4.00 to 8.00CDN/night)

Exchange Rate: 1 Dinar = $0.75CDN

Border Formality Costs: Visa & Motorcycle Customs = 460 Euro Total ($670.00CDN)

Oct. 18, 2007.  The Tunisian Border formalities are faster then expected and we are approx. 1 hour early for our Tourist Escort/Guide.  We only had to wait for Adel Hassan Sulieman for 15 minutes.  After introduction he took our passports and carnet de passages for the motorcycles and started the visa and customs procedures.  Through research on the internet and Horizons Unlimited we had chosen Fessano Tours Tourist Escort (www.fessano-w-tours.com).  Currently foreigners are not allowed to travel through Libya in their own vehicle unescorted.  There have been reports recently that Transit Visas have been issued without escort, but we were unable to confirm this information. The cost for our seven (7) day stay in Libya not including our accommodations, fuel or meals were as follow:

Invitation for Transit Visa         50 Euro (per person)        =        100 Euro

Visa Fee:                                   35 Euro (per person)        =        70 Euro

Border Formality                       100 Euro (per bike)         =        200 Euro

Border Assistance                     50 Euro                           =        50 Euro

Guide by own Car                      100 Euro (per Day)          =        700 Euro

Official Stamps                        20 Euro (per person)        =        40 Euro

TOTAL                                                                                     1160 Euro or $1650CDN.

Adel also has a driver called Munir Ahmed Shehab. Our escort vehicle was a two (2) door Toyota compact car. Both Adel and Munir spoke English well.  All street signs are in Arabic, but English is spoken widely, especially around Touristy places.  All border formalities took approx. 2 hours and we had to mount Libyan licence places over our Alberta ones. During our wait we watched in amusement how gasoline was smuggled across the border from Libya to Tunisia.  Libya's gasoline is a 10th of the cost of Tunisia's.  Tunisians bring across their vehicles empty (some even have to be pushed to the gas station in Libya) and then refuel and return to Tunisia, where the fuel is siphoned out of the vehicle tank into canisters. These canisters are then sold on the side of the street. Here we also ran into Lothar and his family, working for the German Consulate in Tripoli. We actually had met four (4) days earlier in Tunisia at a waterfall.  They had lived in Canada for 5 years, as he was with the German Consulate in Ottawa and their son was born in Canada.  A very friendly family and they showed true enthusiasm for us and what we were doing.  They invited us to their place in Tripoli and if we didn't have to pay a 100 Euro/day for the escort, we would have dropped in. From the border town of Ras Jedir we ride to Sabratha approx. 100kms.  Every country has their own way of driving and the different rules always seem to take us by surprise.  Here we are going 130kms/hr following our red escort, passing vehicles and having traffic coming at you from both sides.  This means that it is okay to drive on the shoulder either direction.  Passing with on-coming traffic is standard. It looked like whoever flashes their lights the brightest has the right off way in passing.  Let's just say we had some close encounters until we were used to the chaos. We made it to Sabratha without being killed.  Sabratha is an ancient Roman City with an awesome view toward the sea.  Entry was 20 Dinars total for two (2) people and the use of the camera, it also included the museum, which was closed by the time we had wondered through the ruins.  As we enter the site the theatre draws our attention.  It is well preserved and has a very intact stage.  We continue to explore temples, roman baths and ancient roman roads.  The site has a lot more to offer then we originally thought.  After a couple of hours of walking through the UNESCO World Heritage Site, we set up camp only a few hundred meters away in the back of a hostel for 10 Dinars/night ($7.50CDN/night).  Here we met up with the Belgium couple Hanno and Ann again, who also are on a 16 day escorted trip through Libya.  They will be spending 8 days in the Sahara Desert. There guide spoke limited English.  Both Hanno and Ann are similar minded as us and we spent the evening together trading information.  They are on a similar route south, but will only go as far as Kenya and then ship their Toyota Land Cruiser to Australia. 

Oct. 19, 2007.  We are on the road by 9am and head into Tripoli, Capital of Libya. Luckily for us it was Friday (Muslim Sunday) and the streets of Tripoli are empty.  We met up with the owner of Fessano Tours, Hadi A Bkai, to square up on the escort fees.  The Debit card does not work in Libya, but we were able to withdraw from the Mastercard.  The bill came to around 2100 Dinars, and as 20 Dinars is the largest denomination for Libya money, it was almost a suitcase of money.  While completing the transactions, Adel had ordered us some real Libyan coffee, even though we are non-coffee drinkers, we smiled and downed the very, very strong coffee in a tiny cup. We gave the Tripoli Museum a miss and we know already that some people will say "Oh no, it is amazing and we shouldn't have missed it".  There are many places we miss and if we wanted to see everything we would require unlimited time and money.  Sorry we are still too young for retirement and have to work for a living. From Tripoli we ride to Leptis Magna approx. 140kms.  Somehow we got sucked into a personal tour guide, which we thought was mandatory and cost us a pretty penny (50 Dinars).  Our first ever tour guide, he was very informative and we did learn a few new things that now explain things we had seen on other Roman sites. Entry to the site is 10 Dinars total including camera.  The UNESCO World Heritage Site is quite large and spread out.  We walked approx. 3km.  Back in Canada we had discussed Leptis Magna and wondered if it would live up to Jerash in Jordan.  It was originally a Carthaginian city and after the fall of the Carthaginian empire the Romans made the city to one of its most important hubs. Most buildings that can be seen today date from Emperor Septimius Severus (AD 193-211) period.  Most impressive is the gigantic forum and adjacent basilica. To appreciate its enormous size, we got to climb up the hidden stairs to behind the Altar and see the basilica in full size from high above. Pillars in the Basilica are covered with carvings depicting Hercules????? The colonnaded arches that surrounded the Forum were joined by the head of Medusa and her sister.  Both the Forum and Basilica have huge piles of pillar fragments and other assortment of pieces, which are sorted for the future restoration.  We walked to the old harbor and what was left of the lighthouse. The harbor today has been reclaimed by land (filled in with silt and sand).  Some excavation has revealed the key of the harbor, docking of the boats and steps. The Roman Baths are impressive; they are split into cold room, warm room and hot room.  Piping installed in the walls explain how rooms were heated. The female and male toilet rooms are separate and can be differentiated by how the key hole was designed.  To our amazement there is even evidence of a mistake in the marble design of the key hole.  One key was placed to close and it can still be seen. We end our tour at the theatre.  Sitting on the upper levels of the seats we overlook the site and watch the waves crash into the beach. Now to the all important question of what existing ancient Roman City is the best example of what it might have looked like in its heyday. Our vote goes to Jerash, Jordan, even though Leptis Magna has some very impressive remains not found at Jerash.  Our campsite was about a 100m from the ruins. Lets clarify campsite, meaning a fenced off grass covered parking lot with a sketchy toilet and shower (it did have hot water) for 6 Dinars ($5.00CDN).  The Belgians, Hanno and Ann camped right beside us.  During the night it started to rain.

Oct. 20, 2007.  We pack up our gear in the rain and are ready to go at 8am.  By miscommunication Adel thought we are leaving at 9am.  While Adel and Munir are getting ready, we took the bikes on our own to the amphitheatre and stadium.  The area is not fenced off and entry to the site free for us since the ticket booth was still closed.  The amphitheatre was really well restored.  A portion of it is built into the side of the hill, the other side is free standing and joined with the walls of the stadium.  All the interior corridors to get to the stands have been excavated and are accessible. The guide book didn't mention the amphitheatre and stadium, but our guide from the previous day had recommended a visit.  We were glad we didn't miss it.  Rain or Shine. It made for a great full rainbow over the entire amphitheatre. Both Adel and Munir were ready to go at 10am, our original plan was to ride to Surt (300km).  There was nothing to see from Leptis Magna to Benghazi a 900km stretch through mostly isolated desert following the Gulf of Sirte. Since we didn't want to do a 900km day in a foreign country, conditions of road and weather unknown, we decided to stop half-way.  It seemed we had all the time in the world to make it to our destination.  Every so many kilometers a check stop appears, Adel had made numerous copies of all our paperwork that was handed over to the officials at each check-stop. At Surt we run into some trouble at the check-stop.  Adel spent a few minutes in the office and came back not very happy.  Surt is the home town of Ghadafi ???? and security is very tight. He recommended to continue on-wards. Meantime the wind had picked up and sand was blowing across the road.  Visibility was reduced and we were getting blown around on the bike.  After 6 1/2 hrs on the bike without a break, except fuel stops we are between Surt and Brega. The sun is setting at 6:30pm.  We stop in a small town, wind and sand blowing, Adel tells us that there is no hotel for another 150km at least.  We questioned that there was no hotel in the town we currently stopped. We had stayed in a lot worse places, but it seemed that Adel was not comfortable staying in any of these places and we continued for another 400km.  We broke our rule of riding at night. We spent three (3) hours riding in some really bad conditions.  The Lonely Planet indicates under the Libyan Dangers & Annoyances section of the book "Driving and the deterioration of cars are the main dangers you encounter.  It is not unusual to come across cars with only one light – or no lights at all on the highway at night."  The last 50kms we even had to watch out for sand dunes that had blown across the highway. It was definitely one of our toughest and most dangerous riding situations we ever been in.  We arrived at 9:30pm in Benghazi, 900km and almost 12 hrs without a break, except of fuel stops from Leptis Magna.  Adel got us a good deal at the Tourist Village for 30 Dinars a night.  But we both were fuming mad at the situation we had been put in.  It is one thing to ride a motorcycle at night in familiar surroundings, but another to ride in a third world country, were road rules are non-existing, very dangerous. Too exhausted to even eat we fall into bed.

Oct. 21, 2007. We were delayed in Benghazi because we had to wait for the official stamp in our passports.  We waited in the lobby of the hotel from 12pm to 1:30pm and finally were on the road again to Shahat. More than half a day was wasted to receive the official stamp. The drive to Shahat from Benghazi is beautiful.  Leaving behind the desert, the road winds its way into the Green Mountains.  220kms of nice scenery.  The sky was in a haze caused by a sandstorm and by the time we got to Shahat, the rain was close. Adel had arranged a camping spot at the Appolo Tourist Resort only a couple of kilometers from the Cyrene Archeological site. A bad storm was moving in and the winds had picked up.  As we try to set up our campsite the owner of the resort, Mr. Mohammed Samer, offers us to stay in one of his new bungalows not yet furnished for free.  The facilities are very nice and the restaurant/cafe is incorporated into a natural cave.  Adel and I head for town for some groceries/drinks, while Mike sets up camp inside the room.  The tent was still wet from the previous days' rain and definitely required airing. Groceries are very cheap in Libya.  In town Adel took me to the "bakery".  There is a constant line up of people waiting for bread to come out of the oven.  It seems that bread is normally produced and bought in the evenings, instead of in the morning.  Peeking through the opening of the door I can see the dough laid out on a wooden plank, then the baker pulls it onto a half moon shaped bowl to flatten it and opens up the drum like oven.  A very rough looking gas bottle is thrown around on the floor and supplies the fuel to the drum. The baker continuously attaches the bread dough to the sides of the drum.  It is very yummy bread and similar to the bread we have purchase in Yemen. Just as we make it back a huge storms moves in and the sky opens up.  We are glad that we are out of the monsoon winds.  We cook some noodles and have our fresh bread.

Oct. 22, 2007. At 8am we can't find Adel, waiting until 8:15am we decide to head for the archeological site of Cyrene on our own. GPS waypoints make everything possible. We park the motorcycles at the lower entrance to the UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Cyrene is situated on the side of a hill and is similar in layout to Delphi in Greece.  The ancient Greek city was founded around 600BC.  The previous nights' storm had passed and we were greeted by blue sky.  As with Delphi, Cyrene has an amazing view across the plains to the ocean. The lower part of the city consists of several temples, a treasury and theatre.  Italian archeologists were working on the theatre as we made our way through it. The most impressive part of Cyrene, and something that we haven't seen anywhere else through our exploration of ancient Greek cities, is the well preserved Greek Bath.  Since most Greek cities were eventually taken over by the Romans, there are many Roman Baths in existence, but this is a first for a Greek Bath.  Its design is not at all similar to a Roman Bath or for that matter any bath we had seen before (see pictures). On the summit of the hill are more remains of temples and some great mosaics.  The forum/gymnasium is lined with columns.  The outside wall is decorated with sculptures and behind hides another small theatre.  On our way back to the bikes we encounter another theatre, cut into the hill side, but in very rough shape.  After spending three (3) hours at the site we return to the Appolo Tourist Resort.  At noon Adel and Munir take us for a drive to the Coast and an ancient port Apollonia.  As we decent from Cyrene, the road passes through an ancient acropolis, tombs are carved into the side of the hill on either side of the road and sarcophagi are littered all over.  This is an unexpected surprise and we are reminded of our visit to Pinera and Termessos in Turkey, as the tombs and sarcophagi are very similar in design. Another pleasant surprise was Apollonia.  The guidebook does not give it much credit, but we explored for two (2) hours.  An ancient port town, it has a beautiful back drop of waves crashing into the rocks.  We found a stairway that led into the dark and could not resist to follow it into old cistern deep below the ground.  Some ruins have been reclaimed by the sea and are visible as the water retreats after each wave.  Snorkeling or Scuba Diving would be a treat, but is strictly forbidden. In the ticket office we join numerous locals from the nearby village and have fresh mint tea.  It was a relaxing atmosphere and we enjoyed the conversations a lot.

Oct. 23, 2007.  As we leave Appolo Tourist Resort, we pass one last time the ancient ruins of Cyrene, the acropolis and Apollonia.  The coastal road from Apollonia to Derna is picturesque.  Not much for population in these parts of the world.  Rocky and sandy beaches as far as your eye can see, the green mountains on one side and the ocean on the other. Back on the upper plateau the scenery is not very appealing, dry rocky desert all the way to Tobruk and to the Egyptian border.  West of Tobruk a huge War cemetery memorializing the fallen soldiers of Britain, Australia and New Zealand in WWII. For our last night in Libya we take a hotel on the outskirts of Tobruk, close to the German War cemetery, which we visit at sun set.  The hotel is 60 Dinars and very nice.  We are anxious about the border crossing into Egypt, remembering the hassle we encountered the previous year.  Tobruk is the last town before the border, which leaves us only 150km in the morning to ride.  An early start is important.  As it is our last night together, we meet in Adel's and Munir's Suite and stay until midnight looking at pictures on the laptop, munching on snacks, drinking non-alcoholic Beck beer and telling stories.  

Oct. 24, 2007. We are on the road by 7am, and hit the Egyptian border by 8:30am.  The licence plates are returned in a small town before the border crossing and our carnets are stamped.  We continue for another few kilometers and then stop to receive our passport exit stamps.  Here we say good-bye to Munir and a few hundred meters later it is farewell to Adel. 9:30am: Egypt here we came again.

Both Adel and Munir were born in Ghadames, a small desert town 500km from Tripoli.  Adel loves the desert and would be an excellent guide to escort anyone through the Sahara Desert.  He feels most at home in the wide open spaces and his English is good.  Since we didn't have a choice in the mandatory escort through Libya, we would recommend the services of Fessano Tours.  Even though we both believe that the days of mandatory escort, especially along the coast is numbered, as there has been reports of visa's being issued without escort in the recent months.

Up