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Italy & Sicily Trip Journal from Sept. 07 to Oct. 05, 2007Last Updated on Oct. 28, 2007.
Country: Italy & Sicily Duration: Sept. 07 to Oct. 05, 2007 Distance Traveled in the Country: Approx. 4500km on the motorcycles and another 2450km in the rental car. Most Memorable Impressions: When we set out to spend a month in Italy we knew we could not see it all. To do it full justice one requires months of time and lots of money. We picked the highlights of Italy and looking back it seems incredible how much we did accomplish. What we will remember most about Italy & Sicily are:
Our Favourites: - Hiking in Cinque Terre - Duomo in Siena - St. Peter's and Vatican Museum - Ancient Pompeii - Paestum (Greek Temple) - Sicily Fuel Cost: Between 1.32 to 1.39Euro/litre ($1.98 to $2.09CDN/litre) Accommodations: Camped 27 days between 20.00Euro to 30Euro/night ($30.00 to $45.00/night) Exchange Rate: 1Euro = $1.50CDN Special Thanks to: Michelle and Randy for coming along with us for the first two (2) weeks of the Italy leg. Michele Mauro, owner of Nettuno Villaggio Camping for all his help.
We arrived in Germany on Aug. 30, 2007 on Air Canada. The plane landed without a hitch so we thought, until we looked outside the window and saw a bunch of fire trucks and other emergency vehicles. We are advised that the steering of the planes' front wheel is not working and a tow truck is on its way. Meanwhile there we are in the middle of Frankfurt Airport on the runway. All planes had to be diverted to another runway as we were towed to the maintenance area with all emergency vehicles following along. Once in the airport terminal, we head over to the luggage pick-up and within minutes the place is full of police and the luggage area is taped off and shut-down. We just shake our heads, maybe if we get all the bad luck over with in the first day it will be better from here on. After picking up our rental car we are off to Limburg ADAC (CAA) and purchase our motorcycle insurance for 22Euro/month/bike (Liability only called the Green Card Insurance). From there it is to Ahausen (Weilburg) to set up base in Michael & Katja's flat. Here we meet Rolf and Ingrid, Michael's parents, and head straight to the basement to check out the motorcycles, which had been stored away in a dark corner for just over a year. It only takes us 1 ½ hrs to get them out, boost them and be amazed that nothing has rusted to pieces. After a well fed meal from Ingrid we are off to bed.
Aug. 31, 2007. We ride the motorcycles to the BMW shop in Sinn for service. We had been in e-mail communication with Andreas Reh at the BMW shop and pre-ordered all the parts and booked the service. In the afternoon we visited Melanie, Ruby's Girlfriend, in Greifenstein. The jet lag was hitting us hard and we called it an early night.
Sept. 01 & 02, 2007. Off we are in our little Opel Corsa to Bremthal/Eppstein to visit Ruby's relatives. It is nice to see everyone again. We take a tour through Claudia and Markus' new house. It is weird to see my little cousin all grown up and married. In the evening Thomas takes us for a ride in his new BMW X3 diesel. We are both amazed by the torque. Now we fly down the Autobahn toward Wiesbaden for some Schnitzels, Wine and Beer in a Wine yard restaurant. But first we stop in at the Einkaufszentrum (Shopping Mall) to view the 79,000Euro ($120,000CDN) 103" Panasonic Plasma HD TV. Nadine and Andy join us as well at the Restaurant and the topic goes to Brazilian liquor. To check out this special drink Thomas and Andy suggest hitting the cocktail bar at the base of the church in Wiesbaden. Needless to say we slept like babies. The best sleep we had in a long time. Sunday, after a healthy breakfast we check out one of Germany's largest flea markets. We could have spent hours exploring, but instead kept it to a couple of hours. After some afternoon cheesecake and coffee in the garden of castle ???? on the Rhein, it is time for us to get back to Ahausen.
Sept. 03, 2007. The BMW Shop in Sinn had offered to teach us how to adjust our own valves, as the motorcycles would not see any real service for approx. 30,000km (South Africa). We are happy to take them up on this. The bikes are already stripped as we arrive and both mechanics show us how to adjust the valves. Mike takes a turn as well. Ruby made a lot of notes, but couldn't believe how simple it was. The shop provided us with a couple of special tools to make life easier when we are sitting somewhere in the desert adjusting the valves. Back at our base we start laying out the gear in the living room. We both wonder how it is all going to fit on the motorcycles.
Sept. 04, 2007. Ruby makes a call to the BMW shop to see if we are able to pick up the bikes today. But an unforeseen problem arises as the mechanics check the bikes in more detail. The clutch on each motorcycle is in bad shape. At 70000km, something we should have thought of. The part is ordered but won't arrive until the next day. Not trying to get stressed about a delay, we go grocery shopping for the trip and pack up the Jesse bags and Touratech bags. Did we mention that every morning we received fresh buns from the Bakery delivered to the doorstep by Rolf and every night we had an incredible German home cooked meal by Ingrid. Thank God we are going to Africa to loose all the extra pounds we have gained due to all the great food in Germany.
Sept. 05, 2007. We call Stefan from Knopf Tours in Heidelberg to check if Randy and Michelle have arrived on the 8:50am flight in Frankfurt. All is well and we are on schedule to meet in Heidelberg the next day. Mike's motorcycle is ready for pick-up at 1pm. After pick-up, we drop of the rental car in Diez/Limburg and then head back to the BMW dealer in Sinn. At 1pm Ruby's bike was still in pieces (both Mike and I were a bit surprised), but by 5pm the mechanic takes Ruby's bike for a test ride. It all looks good. Everyone is excited for us. We pick up four (4) extra filters and some oil and the mechanics give us some more tips on maintenance. We can tell that they hope the motorcycles will not give us any trouble. The bill came to a staggering 7,300 Euro ($10,500CDN). Okay I did go a bit pale at this, but the reality is that we don't want to be broken down in the middle of Africa. The cost included: (2) front and rear Metzler Tourance tires, (2) AGM batteries, (2) clutches, (1) new rear drive adaptor plate and bearings, (2) front and rear Wilbers Adjustable Suspension shocks, (2) front and rear brake pads, (2) alternator belts, and (2) scheduled services. A lot of work in three (3) days. Thanks to BMW Dealer in Sinn for all the help and good service. Back at the flat we start wiring Mike's new GPS, getting the Jesse bags and Touratech bags installed. Rolf gets out the flood lights as we work into the night. Last minute as always. Rolf is taking pictures like crazy. Melanie stops in to give a hand. Exhausted we fall into bed. We fear we won't be able to get any sleep due to all the excitement, but are proven wrong. Both of us sleep through the night and can't believe when the alarm goes of at 5am.
Sept. 06, 2007. We waited for this a long time, the day had arrived and our journey into the unknown begins. Ingrid and Rolf seemed as exited as us, as we strap on our camping gear and mount our bikes at just after 6am. It was like saying good-bye to our parents, big bear hugs were exchanged and last pictures taken in the dark and then we rode off. God were the motorcycles heavy. We come to the realization that we hadn't ridden the BMW's for over a year or for that matter any motorcycle for a year. Now this 300kg beast seemed to be overwhelming. We hit the Autobahn in Limburg, and with that, the morning rush hour. Then it started to rain. We were both pretty tense for the first hour as we fight our way through traffic and getting used to the bikes, by the time we get to Heidelberg we feel better already. We pull into Stefan's (Knopf Tours) driveway and see the smiling face of Michelle. It is amazing we are finally on the road. Randy and Michelle's BMW R1200GS is fully packed and they are ready to go. We can tell Randy is nervous about the ridding the bike. His look tells all "What did I get myself into?". Mike is in the lead, Randy and Michelle in the middle and I follow. Our goal is to keep Randy and Michelle out of harms way until they have learnt the ropes. We get to the first traffic circle in Heidelberg and Randy emergency brakes and almost drops the bike. With super human strength he keeps it up-right. I was laughing so hard that tears were running down my face. Do I ever remember my first day fully packed on the GS. He learnt his first lesson, the bike is heavy and once it starts to lean it is impossible to hold it up especially in slow maneuvering. For the rest of the day Randy was paranoid to drop the bike when going slow. We hit the Autobahn and head toward Munich. It starts to rain after Stuttgart, the temperature drops and the rain gets heavier. What a first day on the road! We stop in with Ekke and Audrey by Munich. Another couple from Calgary traveling on motorcycles. They had left for Munich on July 04 and upon arrival Ekke's motorcycle fell on his knee and he tore his patella tendon, putting a hold on there travels on the first day. As we met up with them, soaked and cold, we are happy to get out of the rain for some coffee and snacks. They stationed themselves outside of Munich until the knee is healed. Both are in positive spirits and still hope to continue there journey the end of September to Africa. Maybe we will met up with them again in Egypt and travel some of the difficult journey through Sudan together. Thanks to both Ekke and Audrey for feeding and giving us some shelter out of the rain. Back on the road we are making our way south of Munich as the rain and cold is relentless. We stop every ½ hour to warm up and decide to get a pension without heading on to Zell am See. The Pension is only 40 Euro a night including breakfast.
Sept. 07, 2007. The next morning we look out of the window and see fresh snow in the mountains only 200m from our current elevation. We check the weather conditions with the owners of the pension and are told that a freak snow storm has hit south of Munich and into Austria. Travel above 800m require chains. We change our plans to hit Grossglockner which is a 2500m mountain pass and instead stay on the Autobahn through Austria. It was a good choice. The rain had stopped, but the roads were still wet and temperatures just above freezing. Past Innsbruck we hit the Brenner Pass and can't believe the amount of snow in the mountains. Entering Italy the clouds start to part and blue sky is in sight. We decide to get off the Autobahn and take on the Jaufenpass. Back in the twisties. Randy recalls his initial surprise of how twisty and chaotic it got immediately after turning off the Autobahn. The road narrowed, motorcycle passing cars and busses in blind corners and no rules. Mike and I were used to being aggressive and decide to have some fun in the corners. Randy catches on quick, but scares the Jesus out of Michelle. As we wait on the top of Jaufen Pass (2094m) for them to catch up, we film them coming up. The roads are free of snow, but the rest of the top of the mountain is covered. Randy is all smiles as he arrives and shakes his head. Michelle wasn't sure if she wanted to repeat the experience. On the way down temperatures start to climb into the mid 20's and we shed the warm clothes. We continue to Meran and then take another pass, Passo della Parade 1518m, to Fondo. Time is flying by and we are still trying to make it to Lake Como for the night. We find a camp site approx. 40km north of Lecco on Lake Como. The second day on the bikes and we had a long tiring day. Randy and Michelle were seeing all aspects of motorcycle travel. We set up camp for a couple a nights, as it was a perfect base to visit Milan for a day. The camp site was 25Euro/night. Randy and Michelle took a bungalow, which had seen better days.
Sept. 08, 2007. During the night Randy and Michelle had a surprise visitor. Another guest mistakenly thought that their Bungalow was his. Luckily Michelle woke up as the guy was taking his shoes off and tried to get into bed with Randy. Again our imagination is running wild. We are up with the sun and ride into Milan. The GPS makes it so much easier to find your way. Our first stop is the "Last Supper" Painting by Leonardo da Vinci in the Santa Maria delle Grazie. We all had missed to read the fine print in the travel book. We arrive at the church only to be told "SOLD OUT". Booking is compulsory up to 60 days in advance. That doesn't work for us very well. A bit of a bummer but we continue to the Piazza del Duomo, situated at the heart of Milan is the famous giant Gothic Cathedral. We park the motorcycles only a block away from the Piazza. The crowds of people have not yet arrived and we have the chance to enjoy the area without the usual buzz. We had timed our arrival just perfect as the mass was just starting. As the convoy of priests and bishops make their way through the centre of the church, waving the burning incense, the memories of our last trip hit us. We have come full circle. Way back in 2006 we had bought Frankincense incense in Oman, where the famous Frankincense route had began and carried it all the way back tracing the old route. Now a year later we are witnessing the burning of this once very essential Incense used for centuries by the church. We both got emotional. From here we take a stroll through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan's famous shopping arcade, too expensive for our budget, but still fun to look and shake your head at some of these prices. We return to our camp at Lake Como and take a walk to the Moto Guzzi Factory, which is unfortunately closed on Saturday and only open for 1 hour every day from Monday to Friday 3 to 4pm. We realize that Italians are on their own time. Nothing is ever exactly open when posted. They definitely are not in a rush for anything.
Sept. 09, 2007. From Milan we hit the Autobahn to Modena to visit the Ferrari Museum. The museum has some priceless Ferrari's and both Randy and Mike are in heaven. The ride from Milan to Modena is straight and boring and we are happy to hit the big sweeping corners from Parma to La Spezia. From the Autobahn we wind our way into the town of Levanto, the heart of the Cinque Terre Region. The campground is terraced and we get a spot at the top for 30 Euro a night. Michelle and Randy find a nice place on the top floor of a 5 story building for 70Euro which includes a view of the sea. The only draw back was carrying the luggage up all the stairs.
Sept. 10, 2007. The tourist office doesn't open until 9am and we meet to determine how we explore the region. We decide to take the train from Levanto to Monterosso al Mare and from there pick up the hike on the ancient footpath known as the Sentiero Azzurro, which follows the coast and passes through four (4) more small fishing villages. The train ride was 1 Euro/person and to walk the ancient pass was 5 Euro/person. Well worth the money. It was an amazing day, the sky a deep blue, each town with is multi-colored painted houses made a perfect picture. The hike is 9km one way and is supposed to take about five (5) hours. For us it only took half the time, but there is a lot of uphill steps especially between Monterosso and Vernazza and Corniglia, the portion that was most enjoyed by us. Proper footwear a must. In Monterosso we visited the San Giovanni Battista with its Genoese facade in black and white stripes. The Romanesque church facade has a beautiful rosette. The ancient footpath between each village winds it way through steep terraces sloping down to the sea, held by over 7000km of dry stone walling, cleverly built without any kind of cement. The terraces are cultivated as vineyards. Cinque Terre is a recognized Unesco "Mankind's World Heritage" Site. It is hard to pick your favorite village as each one has its own charm in a beautiful setting. Vernazza has a picturesque habour with multi-colored little fishing boats lining the dock. The church in Vernazza has a unique octagonal bell tower and is the only one built on the sea. We also decide to climb the look-out tower of the Castello Doria in Vernazza for a rewarding view. The next village is 4km away and it seemed only uphill climbing through terraced vineyards. Corniglia is the only village that is removed from the sea and perched at the pinnacle of rocky terraces. We take our lunch in front of the San Pietro church. The stretch from Corniglia to Manarola is only 1km and more traveled. Manarola and Riomaggiore are linked by the famous via dell Amore (Lovers Lane). Riomaggiore again is made for postcards. We climb the 546 steps (counted by Randy and Mike) to the castle for a Panoramic view. We ended our day by taking the boat back to Levanto (10Euro/person), viewing each village one last time from the sea as the sun sets.
Sept. 11, 2007. We leave beautiful Cinque Terre and head into the heart of Tuscany. Our first stop is Pisa. We take turns to see the leaning tower of Pisa. One couple stays with the bikes as the other visits the Duomo and leaning tower. The Duomo is 12th and 13th Century architecture and is decorated with Arabic-inspired complex geometric pattern. Everyone has seen pictures of the leaning tower, but until we stood only a few feet away from it, we got a real appreciation to the meaning of 5.4m leaning from vertical. One also notices the last two levels are added later as they tried to correct them into the vertical. Overall an amazing engineering sight to keep it from falling over. Earlier that day I lost my sun glasses (as I normally do on every trip) and Mike got me some from the street vendors for 4Euro. The original price was 17Euro and Mike bargained with the vendor until they reached an agreement of 4Euro. After a couple of hours of exploring we are on the road again to San Gimignano, our base for three (3) nights and hub to visit Florence, Siena, Monteriggioni and San Gimignano. The campground is only 2km from San Gimignano and our site had a great view of the 13 towers that dominate the skyline. At 26 Euro a nice campground with a huge swimming pool (for free). Randy and Michelle stayed close by in a Pension. We headed into San Gimignano before sunset and walked the cobble stone roads between the 13 towers and numerous Piazza's. The 12th and 13th centuries Towers were built by noble families and at its height San Gimignano boosted 72 towers. It is also a great place to walk through late at night when all the tourists have left.
Sept. 12, 2007. We take the motorcycles to the heart of Florence. Yeap, the GPS coordinates planted us directly in the Piazza di San Giovanni in front of the massive Duomo. We actually were riding on the Piazza, without realizing that we were not allowed to be there. Finding parking was hard has every motorcycle parking spot was taken over by millions of scoters, but we squeezed our monsters into tiny spots. At the end of the day we find out that we park illegally as the spot was only allowing scoters with electric drive to park there. Mike's GPS accidentally slips out of his hand and the touch-screen hits the handlebar clamp down, breaking it in numerous places and making it none operative. Michelle and Randy wandered off to explore on there own and we were mesmerized by the Duomo – Santa Maria del Fiore. The Duomo's facade is Neo-Gothic marble and the cathedral is Europe's fourth largest church. Entrance to the church is free, but we paid for entry to the older church that lies beneath the Duomo (3Euro/person). We also decide to climb the Campanile (6 Euro/person) which stands 85m tall and gives us an incredible view of Florence and the top of the dome. Not satisfied with climbing a million stairs we also head up the stairs to the top of the Brunelleschi's dome (6 Euro/person). It was built without any scaffolding and the interior of the dome walls display colorful frescos like the Last Judgment by Vasari. The Baptistry (3Euro/person) also has decorated ceiling by many famous Florentines. The East Door of the Baptistry was completed by Lorenzo Ghiberti and made out of bronze. The original ten relief panels show scriptural subjects like Adam and Eve Expelled from Eden and Cain Murders his Brother, Abel. After exploring every corner of the Piazza del Duomo we head to the Piazza della Signoria. Rich in history and awe inspiring at the center the great Bell tower, roman statues line the Loggia and a copy of David completed by Michelangelo towers in front of the Palazzo Vecchio (Palace Entrance). The Fontana di Nettuno, Ammannati's fountain of the Roman god surrounded by water nymphs commemorates Tuscan naval victories. We find the perfect place to sit on the steps of the Loggia dei Lanzi and have some sandwiches. Re-energized we continue our street by street exploring to the Santa Croce Gothic Church and cross the river Arno via Ponte Santa Trinita Bridge. The bridge gives us an excellent view of the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest surviving bridge in the city built in 1345. It is lined with antique shops and specialized jewelry shops. A walk across the bridge is a bit of a stampede as you have to make your way through herds of tourists to get back to the heart of Florence. We had accomplished what we wanted to see and exhaustingly met up with Randy and Michelle at the end of the day to ride back to San Gimignano.
Sept. 13, 2007. Randy and Michelle decide to take a rest day and we ride to Siena. I lead, as my GPS is still working, but take the wrong turn three (3) times in the first town. Mike and I switch motorcycles and make our way to Siena without any hitches. We park the motorcycle outside the walled town and head uphill to the Duomo. The all-inclusive ticket of 10Euro/person is actually the best deal we have gotten in Italy. It enables us to visit the Duomo, the Museum, the Facciatone, the Crypt the Baptistry and the Oratory and avoid the queues at the entrance. Both Mike and I agree that this was one impressive Duomo, dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, Queen and Patron of Siena, is amongst the highest artistic expressions of the late Middle Ages. We were also in luck that it was September, as only late August to early October the floors of the church are unveiled, exposing unique example of marble inlay and graffito decoration. Two inlays were completed by Michelangelo. Restoration is continuously on-going. The interior of the Cathedral is overwhelming, gold plated facades, dark wood Pulpit Panels, and surmounted by a carved frieze of the popes. One of the most "over-the-top" churches we had seen besides the Vatican in Rome. The outside facade, built by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano includes niches, reliefs, spires and columns. Along the edge of the roof are lined with life size statues. The original statues are in the Museo dell'opera beside the church. Climbing to the top of the Museum allows for a great view over the city and Duomo. Below the Duomo lies the Cripta, an older church displaying some great uncovered frescos. The Baptistry lies below the Duomo and Cripta. From here we walked to the Piazza del Campo, which houses the Palazzo Pubblico, the graceful Gothic town hall completed in 1342 and Fonte Gaia (Fountain). The 102m bell tower can me seen from far away. The Piazza occupies the site of the old Roman forum and for much of Siena's early history was the city's principal marketplace. Today it is a great place to hang out and relax. Only 12km north of Siena lies Monteriggioni. A small village enclosed in a 560m long and approx. 10m high stone fortress wall. 14 defensive towers tot the walls. The fortress was first founded in 1213 and only in 1554 the fortress was capitulated because of the betrayal of Giovannino Zeti. For 1.50Euro/person we allowed to walk part of the wall. The centre of the village is the Square Roma, characterized by the cistern and by the Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta. The village has a laid back feeling and we enjoy a relaxing walk through the streets and some famous Italian ice cream (Gelato). On our return route to the campsite we took the scenic route through Colle Val d'Elsa.
Sept. 14, 2007. On the road again from San Gimignana on the S223 to Grosseto and along the coast to Rome. Randy takes the lead with his GPS and does an awesome job navigating. But it was interesting that he made the same wrong turn in the same town as I did the day before. Our campsite is on the coast in Lido di Ostia (24Euro/night). Michelle and Randy take a bungalow (46Euro/night) on the campground. The beach is nothing to write about, but the location of the campground ideal for visiting Rome. It is "catching up day" on laundry and other things.
Sept. 15, 2007. We allowed two (2) days in Rome, which meant two (2) crazy go go go days. We purchase each a bus/train pass for the day (4Euro/person). The bus leaves the campsite at 7:00am and takes us to the train station 2kms away. The Columbio Train Station is the beginning or end of the train line and leads directly to Rome. After a 45minute train ride we change to the Metro, which takes us to the centre of Rome. Here we jump on the Metro to the Vatican (San Pietro Station). We prepared ourselves for the line ups, but still were taken aback that even as we arrive ½ hour before opening the Vatican Museum, the line up is two (2) hours long. The Vatican Museum (13Euro/person) is home to the Sistine Chapel and to one of the world's most important art collections. It is vast and overwhelming. We had to be selective to what we wanted to see besides, of course, the Sistine Chapel. Finally inside we toured the Egyptian, Assyrian, Geek, Etruscan and Roman Art. The statues and artifacts are priceless and we are surprised of how much has been "acquired" from Egypt, the Middle East and Greece. We do remember that whenever we explored places in these countries it was mentioned in the Guide Books that the original were either in the Museum in Rome, Berlin or London. After two (2) hours we reach the Sistine Chapel (no pictures allowed). Michelangelo frescoed the ceiling for Pope Julius II between 1508 and 1512. Even so we were packed into the room with another 1000 other tourists, it has to been seen. The fresco shows the rise and fall of man and subjects from the Old and New Testament. On our way to the next stop the Piazza San Pietro and St. Peter's, Michelle took a fancy to a green fake Prada handbag. Both Mike and Michelle love to bargain with the street vendors. The initial price was 50Euro and we purchased the bag finally for 14Euro. Michelle confirmed later that the handbag fit on the motorcycle. The Piazza is beautifully surrounded by Pillars and Sculptures. We get into line to climb the Dome of St. Peter's (5Euro/person), which rises 136m above Rome. The staircase has 537 steps to the summit. It is well worth the view of the inside of the Dome to appreciate the numerous frescos and the spectacular panoramic view over Rome and the Piazza San Pietro. At last we explore the inside of St. Peter's. Home to Michelangelo's Pieta, Arnolfo die Cambio St. Peter's, the Papal Altar and Monument to Pope Alexander VII. Rome is well signed for tourists and we follow the signs to the Piazza Navona, with the Fontana (Fountain) del Moro and the 17th Century church of Sant Agnese in Agone. And just around the corner is the impressive Pantheon, a temple to "all the gods". It is Rome's best preserved ancient building and was built in 1st century AD. In the centre of the Piazza della Minervastands, is Bernini's outlandish sculpture of an elephant supporting an Egyptian obelisk. We continue to the Trevi Fountain, Rome's largest and most famous fountain, then passing the Colonna dell Immacolata we are at our final destination for the day the Piazza die Spagna and the Spanish Steps. Totally exhausted we jump on the Metro and back to our campsite.
Sept. 16, 2007. Our second day in Rome. We are all tired, but push through our itinerary. By now we are pro's of the bus and Metro system and arrive at the Colosseum at opening. Perfect timing, as there was no line ups and the place almost deserted. Don't be fooled only an hour later the place is packed with 1000's of tourists. The Colosseum, Rome's greatest amphitheatre was commissioned in AD72. Deadly gladiatorial combats and wild animal fights were staged by emperors. It is grand, but a bit of a disappointment after we have seen some of the great ancient Roman Structures in the Middle East. It almost seemed that they cheap out on the building material. We were accustomed through our Middle East travels that Roman Ancient Towns were built by massive one piece pillars, either made out of marble, granite or other rock. Here we saw that the pillars were made out of red bricks and mortar and then plastered to look like a seamless pillar. The outer wall of the Collosseum is actually made out of solid rock, but only half is still standing. Nevertheless it is amazing that it survived to this day. The Collosseum ticket (11Euro/person) included entry to the Palatine, once residence of emperors and aristocrats. It is almost like a stroll in the park, except that we get the privilege to view ancient Roman Ruins. The place is not as touristy as the Roman Forum situated right beside the Palatine. It is mind boggling the amount of ancient churches, pillars, fountains and structures that can be seen in a small area of Rome. We enter the Roman Forum through the Arch of Titus and leave it through the Arch of Septimius Severus. The steps lead to the Piazza del Campidoglio. We continue our walk past the Victor Emmanuel Monument and along the Tajan's Forum and Markets. The Trajan's Column stands 30m tall and details scenes from Dacian campaigns, beginning with the Romans preparing for war and ending with the Dacians being ousted from their homeland. It was unanimous that we had seen all we wanted to see and we tracked ourselves to the Metro and headed back to the campsite for some well deserved Italian Pizza.
Sept. 17, 2007. We leave Lido di Ostia, Randy leading the way and take the coastal route, avoiding the all expensive Autobahn. As we get close to Naples the GPS routes us on the Autobahn and we get stuck in a huge traffic jam at the pay booth. A grass fire had broken out just 100m ahead and shut down a row of 10 pay booths. We didn't move for over an hour and were roasted by the sun and heat. Finally moving again we turn off the Autobahn at Pompeii and entered the Penisola Sorrentina. Our predetermined campground was located on the Amalfi Coast halfway between Capri Island and Amalfi, in a small habour village called Marina del Cantone. It took us two (2) additional hours of windy roads to make it the last 50 to 60kms to our destination. Upon arrival we got one of the last campsites and Randy and Michelle were out of luck. As we check in Mike realizes that he is missing is passport. The campground in Rome had forgotten to return the passport to Mike upon payment. We are assured that it is no problem and that the passport can be couriered within 24 hours to our current location. We decide to stay and the manager of the campground finds Michelle and Randy alternative accommodations at 85Euro/night in a beautiful white-washed house close by.
Sept. 18, 2007. We booked a boat tour to the Island of Capri the previous day for 25Euro/person. Leaving at 8:45am we motor down past the tip of the Penisola Sorrentina and around the north side of Capri Island. We stop at the Grotta Azzurra or also called the Blue Grotto, which is a cave bathed in iridescent blue light. Tiny fishing boats take us through a small opening inside the Grotto. By small I mean we had to lie on the bottom of the fishing boat to make the opening. The cost for this pleasure was 9Euro/person. Randy seemed to be enjoying it, not sure if it was the incredible blue iridescent blue light or that he had Michelle and myself lying between his legs. Back in the tour boat we are dropped off at the Marina Piccola for a 5 hour self tour of the Island. We hike straight up to the main town Capri and to the castle above, which was actually a private residence. Luckily it also led to a spectacular viewpoint of the Marina Piccola and coast line. On our way to Certosa di San Giacomo, a Carthusian monastery, we get a great view of the winding road called via Krupp, closed currently to the public since 2006. Taking the long way back through town we return to the Marina Piccola and go for a swim and sunbath until our Tour Boat arrives at 4:30pm. The one (1) hour ride back on the boat followed the coast line and takes small excursions to non passable caves. In the evening Michelle made pasta for all of us and we had wine to celebrate how far we had come.
Sept. 19, 2007. We take the 6:55am bus to Sorrento, which takes 50 minutes and jump on the train to Pompeii. The day pass for the bus and train costs 5Euro/person. We enter Pompeii at just before 9am (11Euro/person). Both Mike and I had been looking forward to explore this ancient town. Pompeii, was damaged by an Earthquake in AD 62 and then covered in 6m of pumice and ash after Mount Vesuvius erupted in AD 79. Even through 2000 people died during this tragic day, it preserved the town and allows us today to view how Romans used to live nearly 2000 years ago. Numerous building walls have paintings and even sculptures survived the eruption. Most of the Artifacts are now displayed in Naples Museum. Casts of dying folks are displayed in numerous buildings behind glass to preserve them. The free map and brochure are excellent. The map outlines three tours ranging from two (2) hours to six (6) hours. We followed the all inclusive 6 ½ hour tour, visiting every theatre, house and temple mentioned in the brochure. Walking along the Roman roads with its Chariot groves and eating our home made lunches outside the Grand Theatre made the aching feet all worth it. It was definitely what we expected and more. At the campsite Randy and Michelle take us out for supper, as it is our last day together and they head back to Heidelberg. The courier for the passport had not arrived; we started to get a bit worried.
Sept. 20, 2007. Our original plan was to head on as well, but as we were waiting for the arrival of the passport we had no choice and stay on. We confirmed that the passport was sent by courier two (2) days prior. We were hopeful. We said good-bye to Randy and Michelle. I was all emotional as it was going to be a year before we would see them again. After some laundry we decided to take a scenic ride along the Amalfi Coast. The road winds it way along the coast passing through Positano, Praiano to Amalfi. We stop numerous times for picture opportunities. It is all they say in the tourist guide books – Beautiful – For the best views of the coast line we make our way to Ravello, high above Amalfi and are not disappointed. Upon our return to campsite, we are told no courier and no passport.
Sept. 21, 2007. We check with the manager of the campsite if the courier with the passport had arrived. He just got off the phone with the courier company and they told us it would arrive in one (1) hour, but we weren't hopeful. By the end of the day still nothing. We spent the day on the beach and updating the journal and discussing the unavoidable that we probably would have to return to Rome and Canadian Embassy for a new passport.
Sept. 22, 2007. We decide to stick around the campsite until noon to see if the courier arrives. Nothing. All packed we continue on our original itinerary to head south, hoping that in a couple of days the passport would show. From Marina del Canton, we climb back up to St. Agada and down to the coastal road past Positano, Praiano, Amalfi and to Salerno. Traffic is brutal. The road at best 1 1/2 lanes wide for two way traffic and big tour buses trying to make there way through. It takes us 2 1/2 hours for approx. 60kms. Once past Salerno, it is only another 50km to our final destination of the day, Paestum. We arrive late afternoon, there are about 10 signs for different campgrounds. We realize soon that most are closed for the season. One campground opens the gates for us and another German Motorhome couple and that is it. It is beautiful campground for only 15 Euro and no-one there. The sun is getting lower in the sky and we head to the ancient ruins of Paestum. It is one of Greeks most important sites south of Naples. It was founded in 6th Century BC and called Poseidonia. It was one of our favourite sites, as besides ourselves only a handful of tourists were present. The site consists of three (3) massive Greek Temples, all in very good conditions. The Temple of Hera I dates back to mid-6th Century BC, the Temple of Neptune dates to 5th Century BC and is the most complete and the Temple of Ceres. The museum was also worth the visit, displaying some great finds from the site. The combo cost us 6Euro/person.
Sept. 23, 2007. Early in the morning we are on the road again into the deep south of mainland Italy, passing through Potenza to Metera. The road climbs steadily through the mountains to Metera. In Metera, we stop at the tourist office to find out more about the town and near-by campgrounds. The nearest campground is 40kms away on the coast in Metaponto. The tourist office even called a few campgrounds in Metaponto to determine if they were still open. Camping Internationalle confirmed and we head straight for it. After setting up camp for two (2) nights (23Euro/night), and visiting the endless sand beach, we head to the Temple of Hera. It took us a good hour to find it as no signage was present, but finally we found 15 doric columns peeking out in the field, behind the autostrada.
Sept. 24, 2007. We return to Metera early in the morning. The lower part of Metera is called Sassi (caves) and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. Since the declaration of a World Heritage site the residents have been relocated into new housing. The old town clings to the side of a ravine overlooking the gorge. There are numerous rock-cut churches and for 6 Euro/person we are able to visit six (6) of them. Some have partial frescos, reminding us of the rock-cut churches in Cappadocia in Turkey. One of the cave homes has been converted into a museum to illustrate how these caves were inhabited. One can see how decease and poverty ravished this area. We wander the streets and cobble stoned alleys for about four (4) hours and continue on our merry way to Alberobello. The part that will stay in our memory of Alberobello is the journey to the UNESCO town and also called Trulli Capital. The GPS took us on some crazy back roads, through fields and fields of farm land. Each piece of land separated by 1m high stone walls. The road, only one car wide between the stone walls, winds its' way through this bizarre country side were Trulli's pop up suddenly everywhere. No one can give an explanation to way these Trulli's were built. Most date back to the 17th Century AD. A Trulli is a circular stone house, with a conical-domed stone roof. Alberobello is where most tourists head to see these strange houses. We were fortunate enough to have seen already the Trulli's still inhabited around Locorotondo and Martina France. Therefore the white washed Trulli's in Alberobello palled in comparison to the real thing. A day of strange living quarters from cave dwellings to circular stone houses.
Sept. 25, 2007. We discuss our options in regards to the missing passport and broken GPS. We determine that we will return to Marina del Canton and talk to Michele, the campground owner. As we leave the south to head north again it starts to rain and the rain turns into a torrential downpour. This had been the first serious rain in three (3) months and we had to take one of the most twisty roads to get to our destination. I had a huge slip on the bike and somehow saved it, but Mike wasn't so lucky and the front end gave away in a corner. It was a slow slide and he and the bike was okay. It was like riding on ice. We were doing 10 to 20km/hr. All the dirt and oil over the last few months was surfacing. After 3 1/2hrs and 60kms we had made it to the campground. Mentally we were both drained. The rain never stopped and Michele gave us the bad news of no passport. We call the courier company again, who told us that the driver has tried three times to deliver the package, but no one was at reception. Which of course was a lie as the campground operates 24 hrs, 7 days a week. We called on the bluff and asked for the driver's phone number and location to pick up the package ourselves. They wouldn't give us the info, but promised that they would courier it by the end of the day. At the end of the day we receive a call that the truck had broken down. As we waited, we met Peter and Lois from Belgium, who kept us company for a couple of hours. Peter also owns a motorcycle and is interested in visiting Iran next year. It is funny how well we always connect with Belgians. We decide to take a room at the campground, but all bungalows were full. Michele gets us the room in the old stone look out tower for 75 Euro/night (normally 130Euro/night). I have never stayed in a castle before, but this is the next best thing. Our room had large Patio doors leading out to the balcony overlooking the Amalfi Coast. It was even okay to carry up all our stuff a thousand stone steps. We made pasta and had some good Italian wine.
Sept. 26, 2007. The courier company TNT calls Michele and advises him that the package is on its way and will be delivered in the morning. We decide to wait until noon and then take the bus to Sorrento and rent a car for two (2) days and head back to Munich, Germany to get a new GPS. Crazy, yeap that is us. By noon the passport still hasn't shown and the driver calls Michele and advises him that the truck is broken down again. At that point Michele looses his temper and tells him that if the package is not at the campground in 1 hour he will personally come to Napoli and kill him. No kidding exactly an hour later the package arrived and were we ever happy. It only took 8 days to travel 300kms. We leave the motorcycles parked in front of the reception and Michele lets us store our gear in the Pizza room. I contact my uncle in Germany via e-mail and then talk to him on the phone about our crazy idea to drive back to Germany to get the GPS. Then at 2:30pm we jump on the 1hr bus to Sorrento. In Sorrento we hit the Internet café and try finding a store on route in Austria or Switzerland and then Germany who will sell us the GPS. We find three (3) stores, one in Innsbruck and two (2) in Munich. I get on the SKYPE and make the call to see if anyone has the Garmin Zumo 550 in stock. No luck with the Innsbruck location, but Munich has it. I tell him that we will be in Munich first thing in the morning and to hold the GPS. At 5pm we pick up our Renault 4 door car for 60Euro/day. Which included insurance and unlimited kms. They had no idea what a deal we got with unlimited kms. We are on the road by 5:15pm heading north to Munich. We get on the Autobahn at Napoli and get to the Austrian Border 9hours later. The cost for the Autobahn only 50 Euro. We excepted more. In Austria we paid for the Brenner Pass and Autobahn 17Euro and by 5am we were parked in front of the GPS store downtown Munich.
Sept. 27, 2007. At 8am I phone the store owner, who opens his store 1hr earlier for us. After picking up the GPS Garmin Zumo 550, we stop at the camera store for a new battery and 2Gig Memory Chip, Pharmacy for some special tea and buy some groceries all in the same block and within an hour. At 9:30am we were heading out of Munich south again.
Sept. 28, 2007. We slept on the road in rest stops a couple of times and arrived at 5am back in Sorrento. The rental place didn't open until 8am. What a trip 2450km in 36hrs. The rental company had no idea. We caught the 8:50am bus back to Marina del Cantone and exhausted check into another of Michele's deluxe bungalows overlooking the ocean.
Sept. 29, 2007. We hit the road at 7am to avoid most of the traffic and tour buses that take over the scenic drive along the Amalfi Coast. We are greeted by blue skies and water. We had gotten to know the drive quite well and happy to be moving on to the next leg of our journey – Sicily. From Salerno we got on the Autobahn all the way to the Port close to Reggio di Calabria. The road actually winds its way through some pretty mountain range and then follows the coast line from Lamezia Terme onwards. Beautiful white sand beaches on one side and a mountain range on the other. The Italians definitely know how to build tunnels and bridges. Ferry boats from mainland Italy to Sicily are continues and it takes approx. 30 minutes for the crossing, which drops us off in Messina for 6Euro each including motorcycles. From Messina we make our way to Taormina and after taking a scenic drive through the center of Taormina and our first glimpse of Mt. Etna, start looking for a campground. After approx. 1hr we find a campground just south of Taormina and at the base of Mt. Etna (so it seemed) for 24Euro/night. Here we met Wolfgang and Monica who just had arrived from Germany on the plane, rented a vehicle and had all their luggage stolen. Great start to there trip. We tried to encourage them to still enjoy there trip, it also made us more careful again with our gear. After some supper we called Randy from the Satellite phone, as he had text messaged us to the Satellite phone that they had arrived home in one piece. They also mentioned that they were really proud of themselves to have made it. We miss having them around and hope that it will encourage them to future adventures. We gave Randy an update on recent occurrences in regards to the passport and GPS and then called my mom for the weekly check-in.
Sept. 30, 2007. Prior to checking out of the campsite we set off to Taormina to visit the Greek Theater. Taormina is Sicily's great resort town and overrun by tourists. But it seems that as in most places in Italy the tourists and Italians do not get going until after 9am. The Theater opens at 9am and for what ever reason is actually free (normally 6Euro/person). The 3rd Century BC Greek Theater was eventually rebuilt by the Romans, to this day concerts are performed in the theater. The view from the stands beyond the stage is amazing as it shows Mt. Etna in its full glory. In the recent weeks Mt. Etna has been erupting again and during our visit it was giving off vog (like fog only from a volcano). On our way back to the motorcycle we walk past the Odeon, which only a portion of it being excavated, as the other half is under the town church. We return to our campsite and pack up. We take the scenic route that encircles Mt. Etna, which takes us approx. 2 hours and then continue onwards to Siracusa. Approx. 15km south of Siracusa we find a nice campsite directly on the beach for 20Euro/night. The campsites are getting less and less populated.
Oct. 01, 2007. Getting another early start we ride to Siracusa. Our first stop is the old city Ortigia located on the peninsula which is only connected with the rest of the modern city by a bridge. Siracusa significance is that it was the most powerful Greek city outside of Greece from 5th to the 3rd centuries BC, then it was ruled by the Romans and of course its most famous inhabitant mathematician Archimedes. After parking the motorcycles we walk past the Castello Maniace the farthest point at the Ortigia to the Piazza Duomo, a pretty square and deserted at 8am in the morning. The Duomo (Cathedral) has a baroque facade and hides inside the pillars of the ancient Temple of Athena (5th Century BC). Most ancient Greek temples only survived due to the fact that churches were built overtop of them or even used the temple within the structure as in the case with the Duomo in Siracusa. Unfortunately for us, most of the interior of the Duomo was under construction. We sit down in front of the Fonte Aretusa and have breakfast, which consists of a piece of salami bread and Diet Coke. From the old city we fight our way through traffic to the Neapolis quarter and the Archeological site, which houses the Teatro Greco and Altar of Hieron II. Its' 15,000 seat Amphitheater is supposed to be the most complete theatre outside of Greece and was built 5th Century BC. It is carved from the hillside. Entry to the site was 6Euro/person. The Latornia del Paradiso features the Orecchio di Dionisio (Ear of Dionysius). A unique cave that seemed to be created by nature. By noon we had completed our mission of sights to see in Siracusa and turned inland to Ferla. Exploring the interior of the country gives us the most pleasures. The roads are mostly deserted and lead through some beautiful farmland and surprising gorges. Ferla was a pleasant small village on top of a ravine and the start to the Prehistoric Necropolis of Pantalica. We stop at the market to restock on water and Diet Coke prior to hitting the Necropolis. The town square of Ferla boosts a beautiful situated Church in the main square with a Baroque Facade. It is 12:30pm, most Italians are having there Siesta and the village seems a ghost town. We take in the peace and quietness. Approx. 10km into the Park we leave the bikes and take off on a 2 1/2hr hike through the gorge. Up and down past 13th to 8th Century BC cave-like tombs cut into the rock. In the Byzantine period some of the tombs were converted in to cave dwellings. There are more then 5000 tombs arranged in tiers. This arrangement is very similar to the ones in Turkey at Pinera. It was a great hike. Exhausted we return late in the afternoon to the campsite for an early nights sleep.
Oct. 02, 2007. Prior to checking out of the campsite, we ride to Noto. Another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1693 and completely rebuilt in Baroque style using white tufa (a limestone turned into a honey color by the sun). We park the motorcycles at the Reale Gate at just before 8am. The streets are empty and the sun is peeking through the buildings. We stroll along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and come upon the twin towered Duomo. It has a huge staircase leading up to the entrance and of course I can't resist running up to pose for a picture, as no tourists have yet arrived. The interior of the church is gleaming white, a contrast to the cathedrals/churches we had seen in the remainder of Italy. As we explore church after church, we realize that it is a 18th Century Baroque style to complete the interiors white and have an oval painting in the centre of the roof. Without a map it is getting difficult to remember each churches name, but to name a few the San Salvatore, San Domenico, Santa Chiara, Monastery of Montevergine and Crocifisso and the town's summit. Noto is also famous for its billowing balconies. The balconies are supported by boisterous carvings of lions, naked females and bearded men, etc. We pay 1.50Euro/each to enter the old theatre, though being small its red interior and circular layout of the balconies are grand. It would be a great experience to take in a play or concert. The theatre only seats 250 people, each booth has its own entrance and the orchestra is sunken. The acoustics are excellent. After a 2 1/2 hour exploration of the town centre it is back to the campsite and within the hour we are on the coastal road again heading toward Agrigento. The GPS is set at the shortest route not shortest time to get to our destination and it leads us through small alleyways of towns and accidentally to another UNESCO World Heritage Site which we originally had not planned on visiting. Ispica lies in a small gorge/valley and has rock-carved tombs/caves. Entrance is 1.50Euro/person and the caretaker even looked after our bikes, while we explored in our full gear. The road along the southern coast of Sicily is pretty uneventful, busy with traffic, and occasional great view of the Mediterranean Sea. We find a campsite 8km from the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento directly on the sea for 25Euro/night.
Oct. 03, 2007. The Valley of the Temples lay on the outskirts of the modern town of Agrigento. The site is large and involves a few kilometers of walking and it seemed mostly uphill. At 8:25am we are the first "tourists" through the gate at the most eastern entrance. Parking of both motorcycles was 1.50Euro/each and Entrance to the site 8Euro/person plus a map in Italian for 1Euro. The sun is still low on the horizon and gives the Temple of Juno, which was build around 450BC a reddish-golden glow in sharp contrast to the deep blue sky. Walking along the Via Sacra we follow the ancient wall and Arcosoli Bizantini to the Temple of Concord. It is one of the most impressive and well preserved Greek Temples outside of Greece. It was built approx. 450 BC and saved from distraction as it was converted into a Christian Church in 400AD. All 28 outside Doric columns are intact and the interior walls are standing, which we only have seen in Balbeek, Lebanon. Unlike the temple in Balbeek, we were not allowed to enter the temple. A few hundred meters further west is the remains of the Temple of Herakles, built in 6th Century BC and the oldest on site. Several columns are standing and the surroundings are littered with toppled ones. We are able to explore the interior and climb up close to the columns to get a real appreciation to there size. We cross the Via dei Templi road and enter the western part of the site. It is a maze of temple ruins, with massive blocks of stone and pieces of columns scattered all over the place. The area is outlined as the Temple of Olympian Zeus and in the midst lays a Telamone, a giant figure that was used in this construction. It is the biggest temple in the valley and originally started in 480BC, but never completed. The current standing columns in the area of the Temple of Castor and Pollux at the far west end is a bit of controversial assemblage of pieces from other temples. It is still a great picture. Directly beside it is the Sanctuary of the Chthonic Divinities, a group of shrines, where ancient worship occurred. Of the beaten path (no tourists) lie the ruins of an Agora and Gymnasium. Through a lot of imagination is required. Besides an ancient looking Church called San Nicola lies the Ekklesiaserion, another Agora and a Bouleuterion. Back at the campground we relax on the beach for some much needed TLC. In the evening we change our next day destination. We are not sure from which port we should head to Tunisia. Our original plan was to take the Ferry from Palermo, but we rerouted to check out Trapani first. Supper is a treat, as we make Spaghetti with Tomato sauce and very fresh Parmesan cheese and a Tomato Salad.
Oct. 04, 2007. We continue our journey through Sicily by taking the coastal road S115 past Sciacca and Marsala to Trapani. In Trapani we head directly to the port area. En route we stop at a post office to send Randy a parcel with the broken Garmin GPS. A different experience, as the entrance is gated off by two separate glass doors. A security check, that makes it impossible to easily get in or out of the post office. At the port Mike finds the tourist office who confirm the location of the ticket office for the ferry to Tunisia. Typical Italian, there is no hours of operation indicated at the ticket booth. After looking all lost the Custom officials took pity on me and confirmed that the Ferry leaves at 11am tomorrow morning, but the booth is not open today and only opens 3hrs prior to leaving (8am). He also told me in broken English that the Ferry arrives at 8am the next day in Tunisia (21hour Ferry ride, which will be of significance a day later). As it is only noon we set up camp in Villa Maria, a huge treed campsite where we are the only occupants for 15Euro/night. A trip into the nearest village and store is successful as we pick up fresh Tortellini and Pesto sauce to be cooked on our all reliable camping stove. Our last night in Italy had to be an Italian meal.
Oct. 05, 2007. The day had arrived for us to leave Europe and enter the next leg of our journey – Africa. We are at the ticket office in Trapani 8am and as per Mike's words it is a "Shitshow". After finally making his way to the front of the line, he is asked also to show the motorcycle registration prior to purchasing the ticket. The ticket indicates 10:30am leaving and no arrival time. Cost is 50Euro/person and 30Euro/motorcycle. We find the entry gate to the ferry boat and show our passports. We are told to return to customs to get a exit stamp from Europe. At last we enter the boat, tie down the bikes and make ourselves comfortable in the theatre room (reclining chairs). The ferry is delayed until 12:30pm and with some last pictures of the habour we say good-bye to Europe.
This site was last updated 10/31/07 |