France Trip Journal from July 29 to August 07, 2008

Last updated April 23, 2009. Return to France Pictures Page 1, France Pictures Page 2 or Switzerland Pictures.

Country: France

Duration: July 29 to August 07, 2008.

Distance Traveled through Europe: Approx. 1,500km on the motorcycles.

Most Memorable Impressions:

We enjoyed the Pyranees and French Alps to its fullest following the route of the Tour de France.  It does not get any better then that on the motorcycle.  All that fun riding resulted in a total rear drive failure on Ruby's motorcycle outside of Geneva, Switzerland.  Yet again the BMW shop in Geneva had us back on the road within a day. Broke and sad we returned to Germany, realizing that it was the end of another amazing, unbeleiveable adventure.

Our Favourite:

-         -         Pyranees
-         French Alps

Fuel Cost: 1.60 Euro/litre ($2.70CDN/litre) for Unleaded Fuel.

Accommodations: Camping (7) nights from 8.00Euro to 31.00Euro/night ($13.00 to $52.00/night)

Exchange Rate: 1.00Euro = $1.68CDN

Border Formality Costs: None (the beauty of Europe)

July 29, 2008.  It was Adios Spain and Bonjour France.  But no worries we will be back to Spain many times as it has way too much to offer on our tide schedule.  We had sat down and pre-planned our route through the Pyrenees.  We would follow the route of the Tour de France and ride up every famous mountain pass we recognised.  Our goal was to get to the base of the fun stuff and stay at a campsite close to a little town called Laruns in France.  From Burgos we stayed on the N120 to Logrono.  We had a bit of fun making our way through the centre of Logrono and ended up on the N111 toward Puente La Reina.  On a small road we made it to the N240 and turned into the heart of the Spanish Pyrenees at Lumbier.  The NA178 turned into the NA137 at Burgui and then cut right through the Valle de Roncal.  This spectacular road winds its way from Isaba to the tree-lined mountain via many switchbacks.  At the top there are no more trees, but an amazing view into three (3) separate valleys greeted us. At 1453m just before the border crossing from Spain into France and the Col de la Pierre St-Martin (1760m) the road is blocked and we are told that we had to reroute and return to Isaba and take the road over Uztarroz to the NA2011.  What a tough life we have riding all these superb roads, so what is a little detour when we can enjoy more fun riding. We cross into France at the Port de Larrau at 1573m.  The NA2011 changes to the D26 until we reach Tardets-Sorholus and then we rode along the D918 through Aramits to Arudy.  It took us most of the day to get to or final destination.  There are numerous campsites in the valley towards Laruns on the D934.  We can not remember the name of the place we stayed at, but it was only 7.00Euro/night ($12.00CDN/night).  We had stumbled on the Route de Fromage (Cheese), which pretty much follows the Tour de France through the Pyrenees.  We could not resist to stop at a local cheese store and buy a piece of Bribis 16-month old aged cheese.  This cheese is made from sheep's milk produced in the Pyrenees.  We fell in love with it and had it a few more times.  It goes very well with a bottle of French wine.  It is time to enjoy the finer things of life.

July 30, 2008.  We hoped for blue skies and were not disappointed.  The campground was still in the shadow of the mountains as we packed up our gear.  Pre-planning the route on the GPS definitely paid off, we were able to enjoy the ride and incredible scenery without the hassle of trying to find the right road.  From Laruns we turned onto the D918 and started our first climb of the day to the Col d' Aubisque (1710m), which is followed directly by the Col du Soulor (1450m) to the town of Argeles-Gazost.  The Rocky Mountains in Alberta are as spectacular as the mountains in Europe.  The difference is the accessibility of them.  Europe has these incredible mostly paved roads that wind their way up and down each mountain pass.  In Alberta we have roads that cut "straight" through the Rockies and the mountains can only be conquered by climbing them.  Europe has the benefit of both easy vehicle and foot access.  The disadvantage is that the areas are overcrowded.  Nevertheless, we are here to enjoy every minute of it.  The D921 runs along the valley between two large mountain ranges and at Luz St-Sauveu we return onto the D918 to summit the famous Col du Tourmalet (2114m).  There are hundreds of bicyclist ascending and descending the mountain.  Markings on the road are a fated reminder that the Tour de France only a week or so passed through here.  From Ste-Marie-de Campan we continue over Col d' Aspin (1489m) to Borderes.  This is the start of the D618 which leads us over Col de Peyresourde (1563m) to Bagneres-de-Luchon.  Low on fuel we decided to detour into Spain for some cheap fuel at Les. The fuel in Spain was around 1.20Euro/litre ($2.00/litre) compared to 1.48Euro/litre ($2.48/litre) in France.  At Fronsac we were back on the D618 and continued over Col des Ares (797m) and somehow took a wrong turn and ended up at Aspet.  We back tracked a bit and rode our last pass for the day the Col de Portet d' Aspet (1069m) to Castillon.  It was time to set up camp.  We found a nice campground called Camping Municipal "Les Vignes"  right on the outskirts of the small village of Castillon close to St-Girons for 7.00Euro/night ($12.00CDN/night).  A trip to the grocery store for ice cream and the end of another great day.

July 31, 2008.  We were aware that we had picked the busiest time of the year to travel in France, especially the southern part of France.  Our goal of the day was to make it to Pont de Gard by Nimes, which meant travelling straight across the southern portion of France.  In the mountains the roads were pretty deserted and it was smooth sailing from Castillon to Foix and onwards to Carcassonne.  In Carcassonne we were awe struck as we past the citadel of Carcassonne, a restored medieval town.  Paying attention to the road and traffic is hard enough, especially when beside us is this fortress right out of the movies or story book.  With no travel book we were totally unaware of the attractions and sights we past.  We way pointed the location on the GPS and said that we would have to return on the next trip for a closer look.  From this point forward the road become more and more congested, there was a traffic circle every two (2) km, which got old in a hurry.  At Montpellier we got our first glimpse of the Golfe du Lion.  An ice cream break was in order.  From Nimes it was only half an hour to Pont de Gard and we stayed at Domaine de La Soubeyranne Camping for 31.30Euro/night ($52.00CDN/night). High Season prices, but it was a more of a resort campground with several swimming pools.  We were lucky and got the last camp spot available.  After setting up the tent in record time we hit the swimming pool, only to be told that Mike could not swim in his swimming shorts, but had to change into tight Speedos.  Not sure about that rule, as some people should avoid wearing bathing suits that barely cover their private parts.  Luckily we were prepared.

Aug. 01, 2008.  We were in the midst of the Cote de Rhone country.  There were water canals everywhere.  We both had the same thought, what we would give to have a Kayak or canoe to explore these many waterways.  There seems never an end to our future travel possibilities.  We had planned a full day of sightseeing, starting with a visit to Orange.  One of the best preserved Roman Theatres in Europe stands in the middle of the town.  It is hard to beat some of the amazing Roman Theatres we have seen in Turkey, Middle East and Northern Africa. Both the Theatre and Triumphal Arch in Orange are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and therefore easy for us to find on the GPS. After a visit of the theatre, we check out the Museum and then the Triumphal Arch.  Back on the motorcycle we cross country to Arles and park only meters from the Roman Amphitheatre.  Arles is a charming small town, with all its main attractions close to the centre.  We opted for the combo pass which allowed us to visit four (4) sites for 20.00Euro/person ($34.00/person).  We ventured first into the Roman Amphitheatre, which could accommodate up to 20,000 spectators in its time.  Unfortunately the entire interior is covered by scaffolding to add seats, which takes away from its grandness.  To this day bull fights are staged in the arena. From the Amphitheatre we made our way to the Roman Theatre, or better what was left of the Roman Theatre, two lonely columns.  For lunch, we picked up a couple of sandwiches and wandered down to the Roman Baths, which were located on the banks of the River Rhone.  Taking in the scenery, we devoured our lunch and then stopped at the Alyscamps (Roman Cemetery) on the outskirts of Arles.  Graves, cippus, sarcophagi and mausoleums made up this unique cemetery.  We follow the graves path, which was littered with sarcophagi on both sides.  The path ended at the Church of Saint-Honorat.  The inside of the church was plain, but a couple of hidden stairways lead to a room below the altar.  It was time to continue to our next destination, the Pont de Gard.  29 years ago, I (Ruby) stood on top of this Roman Aqueduct Bridge (Age 6).  When I got back to Canada I actually pulled out the photo album to look for the pictures.  The site is now a full blown tourist attraction. In 1986 the Pont de Gard was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The money they received from UNESCO has been well spent.  We purchased a day ticket for 12.00Euro/person ($20.00/person), which included entry to the superb Museum and walking across the bridge inside the Aqueduct.  The museum displayed in detail how the tallest Roman Aqueduct (49m high) was constructed. We spent almost two (2) hours exploring the museum.  By 5pm we were standing on the east side panoramic view point taking in the entire length of the bridge.  In total the Aqueduct used to run 50km from Uzes to Nimes. We walked across the lower part of the bridge and then joined the guided tour across the upper level inside the actual Aqueduct.  There are huge build up of calcium deposits on the interior walls of the water channel.  It is believed that the water channels were used approximately for 400 to 500 years.  Unfortunately we are no longer allowed to walk on top of the water channel, mainly due to safety reason.  Therefore a picture of me in the same spot as 29 years ago impossible.  It did not matter, all that counted that I could share this special moment with Mike.  We wish we had more time, but we were exhausted, as always a full packed day.

Aug. 02, 2008.  A long day of riding lay ahead.  We took down our tent and left behind Pont de Gard.  Every town and village we passed through seemed to have some type of castle, fortress or grand church.  As we rode through Avignon we see the Palais des Papes glowing in the morning sun, a beautiful sight, but we continue onwards to Carpentras.  Enroute to Mt. Ventoux we detour at the spare of the moment onto a scenic route through the Gorges de La Nesque.  What a find.  The only traffic we encounter is bicyclists.  We stop for breakfast at a treed rest area.  We had not expected to encounter this beautiful gorge and spent much longer then anticipated in the area.  The road winds its way through a narrow gorge.  There are several tunnels carved out of the rock and the road clings to the side of the mountain.  Strategic placed look outs give excellent views of the gorge below. Back on the main road we continued on D164 to Mt. Ventoux (1909m).  The road clearly showed evidence that the Tour de France had just taken place.  Mt. Ventoux, meaning Windy Mountain, proudly stands all alone in a flat plateau.  It can be seen from far away.  The top of the mountain is wind swept.  We stopped at the monument where British cyclist Tommy Simpson died during the 1967 Tour de France to pay our respect.  I am in total admiration for the cyclists who are painfully riding up this steep mountain.  At the top we expected cool windy temperatures, but it was dead calm.  The sky bluer then blue and the 360 Degree view spectacular.  We could not have picked a better day.  Here we met Boris on his ????? from Germany, who decided to join us for portion of the ride.  In Nyon, Boris and us got separated, we stayed on the D94 past Gerres to Gap.  The scenery around Lac de Serre-Ponon is breathtaking.  The lake water a brilliant blue.  Traffic was brutal.  In Savines le-Lac we stopped for fuel and watched the police set up a speed trap.  We still had a few miles ahead of us.  At Guillestrewe we turned onto the D902 and started our ascend of Col d' Izuard (2360m).  At last we made it to Briancon, the highest town in Europe at 1320m, our final destination.  Our plan was to set up camp for a couple of nights and enjoy the French Alps on motorcycle.  We stayed at Champ de Blanc Campsite outside of Briancon for 16.20Euro/night ($27.00CDN/night). 

Aug. 03, 2008.  How can one describe "the" perfect riding day.  Are we ever jealous of all the people who live in beautiful places like this.  Yet again we hoped for blue skies and what we got was exactly that.  The air was crisp in the morning.  From Briancon we headed north toward our first ascend the Col du Lautaret (2058m).  Ahead of us a massive mountain range in stark contrast with the crystal clear blue sky.  We continued on the N91 and then climbed the famous Tour de France route to L' Alpe-d' Huez.  How can it get any better then this? We took pictures of the Tour de France L'Alpe-d'Huez Stage Finish Line.  The road actually continued onwards and we explored until it dead ended.  Instead of descending on the same road we rerouted and found a small road that gave spectacular views of the switchbacks and the valley below.  At Allemont a small road (D526) made its way through the Chaine de Belledonne Mountain Range.  A quick ride up to Col du Glandon (1951m) for a picture and we returned to the D926 and another pass the Col de la Croiz de Fer (2067m).  We left the best for last.  The Col du Telegraphe (1570m) and Col du Galibier (2645m).  Though my motorcycle was running badly, as it had a dead spot between 3000 and 4000rpm, we pushed the limits on the BMW's.  This is what they were made for, the Swiss Alps, the French Alps and Austrian Alps.  I was born to ride these roads.  At the top of Col du Galibier, the view was incredible.  The motorcycles received a lot of attention.  We had been on the road for almost exactly 11 months.  What an accomplishment.  Here we were standing on top of the world so it seemed.  We descended into Briancon and return to the campsite.  Sitting in our trusty South African chairs I checked out my motorcycle and noticed oil all over the rear wheel, shock and drive shaft.  Holy Molly, I was amazed that with that much oil on the tire I did not crash.  It must have just happened.  Mike and I inspected the damage and figured that the rear shock had blown. The trip was over; it was time to head back to Germany on the express route.

Aug. 04, 2008.  The truth to be told, we did not want to return back to Germany.  The previous night we had wiped of the oil from the rear tire with gasoline.  I was not comfortable riding the motorcycle, but we pushed on from Briancon to Le Monetier-les-Bains over the mountains into Italy and joined up with the E70.  The mountain road was beautiful.  Tunnels, switchbacks and no traffic.  The rear end of the motorcycle was getting worse. We entered the 12km long Tunnel de Frejus and paid 23.00Euro/motorcycle ($39.00/motorcycle) for the privilege.  Back in France we continued on the E70/A43, paid the tolls and just outside of Geneva, the rear end was making grinding noises.  Mike and I switched motorcycles and within seconds Mike determined the cause of the problem.  It was not the rear shock as first assumed, but the rear drive at gone.  The seal had been leaking ever since Portugal and finally blew the previous day.  We were concerned to cease the rear drive.  With 50km/hr maximum speed and the Hazard lights flashing we slowly made our way into Geneva, Switzerland.  The GPS indicated a BMW Car dealership, our best bet at this point.  Slowly rolling into the dealership, we are redirected to the BMW motorcycle shop (Chuard-Motos Sarl on Rue de Lyon 84) in Geneva.  No time was wasted as the mechanic, Alex, pulled in the motorcycle, hoisted it up and had a look at the rear drive.  The news were not good.  The rear drive was completely destroyed, all the teeth ground to nothingness.  The only option we had was to replace the entire rear drive.  We were told the part would be 1,400Euro ($2,352.00) plus labour.  Another motorcyclist stops in the shop to get something checked out on his motorcycle.  He speaks French and perfect English.  It turns out he was born in Nairobi, Kenya.  As he sees us struggle with our French, he come to our aid and asked the mechanic if they had a used rear drive.  We were in luck and a slightly damaged rear drive appears.  The damage is a scratch, superficial.  We laugh and tell the mechanic to look at the motorcycle, there is lots of scratches on it another one will not matter. It is lunch time and the motorcyclist invites us for lunch.  We have a great conversation.  Yet again we met someone like minded.  The lunch hour flew by and we returned to the shop to be told that the rear drive would be 300Euro ($500.00) plus installation.  There is not much left of the day, the rear drive replacement is scheduled for the next morning. We leave the motorcycle and some of the gear at the shop and two up in search for a campground.  We found a campground on the Swiss/French border approx. 15km outside of Geneva in the wine country. Camping Cantonal du val de l'Allondon (16.00Euro/night or $27.00CDN/night), is located in a heavily treed national park on a small river.  The lady at reception was smoking and coughing continuously.  Mike and I exchanged eye brows raised looks.  It took forever to get registered.  The campground has hundreds of permanent holiday trailer.  We are told that we can only stay for a couple of days and then they were fully booked.  Just enough time to get the motorcycle fixed and get back on the road.

Aug. 05, 2008.  We rode into Geneva and left the motorcycle at the shop.  Talking to Alex, the mechanic he told us to return by noon or later and gave us directions to get downtown.  Walking downhill we reach Lake Geneva and the birthplace of the Rhone. Crossing the bridge into the old town of Geneva, we wander along the south banks of the Rhone to the Jet d'Eau, Europe's tallest fountain.  We picked up some bakery for breakfast and sat on one of the many benches on the bridge watching the water spraying into the air from the fountain.  Some grand building can be found around the Parc des Bastions.  The old town is situated on a hill.  We head straight for the Cathedrale St-Pierre. The cathedral is beautiful, but we came to explore the archaeological site located below the cathedral.  Not really knowing what to expect we were blown away by the displays we found below.  A first class excavation site made accessible to the public.  We spend two (2) hours equipped with an audio tour exploring the tomb of an Allobrogian chieftain, the beautiful mosaics of the bishop's reception, the wells, and some fine decorative elements carved in stucco or stone.  Definitely the highlight of Geneva.  By 2pm we were back at the BMW shop.  The new used rear drive was installed and we were rolling again.  Back at the campsite we stroll along the creek and have ice cream at a near by restaurant.  The lady at reception got some frozen bread out of the freezer and for a couple of Euro we had freshly baked bread for supper.

Aug. 06, 2008.  En-route to Germany we decided to stop in at Strasbourg.  We zig zagged between Switzerland and France border.  From Geneva we climbed the Col de Faucille (1323m) for a great view of Geneva and the mountain range beyond.  Staying on the country roads we passed Lac de Joux in Switzerland and then turned back into France toward Montabeliard.  To the left of us ever so often a castle would pop up in the hills.  The one that stood out was the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg.  We waypointed the location and told ourselves that we would be back one day.  Meanwhile we continue toward Strasbourg.  Finding a campground was more difficult then we thought. After kilometres and kilometres of following Camping signs we set up camp on the outskirts of Kehl on the German side.  The campground is beautiful with all the amenities for 14.00Euro/night ($24.00CDN/night). We wasted no time and headed into Strasbourg and parked the motorcycle on the sidewalk facing the famous Cathedrale Notre-Dame. The beauty of being on the motorcycle, very seldom do we have trouble finding a parking spot. Though inundated by thousands of tourists it does not take away from the grandness of the place.  We took a stroll down the Grand Rue to the Ponts-Couverts.  The reflection of the beautiful colourful tall houses, bridges and medieval watchtowers in the waters of the canals were mesmerizing.  The sun was setting allowing for perfect lighting.  We continued our walk along the Quai Saint-Thomas on the shores of the Canal III, exploring some more of the old town. Criss-crossing the bridges we finally return on the heart of the old town.  For supper we treated ourselves to Pizza at a restaurant located directly outside the Cathedral Notre-Dame.  It wasn't even outrageously expensive, two (2) pizza's and (2) Diet-Cokes 30.00Euro ($50.00).  Sometimes you have to pay for the atmosphere.  Strolling some more around the tiny streets of Strasbourg we take in the "Blass Musik", a band playing traditional German music in the streets.  By 11pm the grand show occurs, the moment we had been waiting for.  Only during the summer months the Cathedral has nightly light concerts.  45 minutes of a spectacular light show complete with music.  We filmed portion of it to encompass the effect.  A perfect ending to another day of being on the road.  By midnight we returned to the campsite, which was locked, but luckily the motorcycle fit through the pedestrian walkway.

Aug. 07, 2008.  The previous day we had noticed a Heinik Gernick motorcycle accessory store in Kehl.  We hung around Kehl until 9am to check out the store.  In Kehl bought motorcycle clothes. Police talked to us. Bought new suit.  Rode to BMW shop in Sinn and then to Ahausen. Back in Germany.

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