Bulgaria Trip Journal from June 27 to July 01, 2006.

Last updated July 11, 2006.  To return to Bulgaria Photo.

Country: Bulgaria

Duration: June 27 to July 01, 2006

Distance Traveled in the Country:  ~ 1100 km

Memorial Impressions of the Country:  One of Eastern Europe's best kept secrets. In a couple of words, the country has beautiful and breath-taking sceneries.  It is like stepping back in time to an era where people still use wooden carriages pulled by horses, work the fields by hand and sit along the cobble stone main street to watch traffic go by.  The remains of the eastern block are still visible, but the younger generation is heading to modernization in huge strides.  Some of the nicest beaches and warmest water we encountered in our trip are at the Black Sea coast.  A country that has gotten some bad press for its corruption in the past, but it is evident that this has changed and that Bulgaria is trying hard to get rid of that image.  We won't forget beautiful Bulgaria.

Gasoline Cost: approx. $1.25CDN/litre for 95 Octane

Hotel, Pension, Camping Cost:  Camping is around $7.00CDN, Pensions $21.00CDN and Hotels $35.00 to $40.00CDN. Wild camping is possible.

Food & Drink Cost: Relatively cheap to eat out. 

Exchange Rate: 1 Leva = $0.70CDN 

June 27, 2006.  We cross over from Turkey into Bulgaria at Malko Tarnovo, a small mountain border crossing.  Our first stop is beside a small both clearly indicating, via a sticker, that no money should change hands.  The border guard indicates a 5 minute wait.  We could see that further ahead a bus with tourists was being processed.  After 15 minutes we proceeded to another building.  A no smiling border guard requests our passports and then grunts and groans and disappears into the building.  The passport is full of stamps and only a three (3) pages are still empty.  There are a couple of postings on the window warning not to exchange money on the street.  A few minutes pass and we have our entry stamp.  There was no question regarding insurance on the bike. We have had no insurance in Turkey as well.  A new EU sign indicates that vehicles get charged a road tax and the pricing is listed clearly. Motorcycles are free. It is evident that Bulgaria is trying it's hardest to get away from the corruptness that it is known for.  Bulgaria was supposed to join the EU in January of 2006, but due to the current government corruptness it was deferred to October 2006.   From the border crossing we decide to head north east to Tsarevo on the Black Sea.  At our first road fork in the road we realize that the road signs are in Cyrillic alphabet, which definitely did not correspond to the towns indicated on our map.  As we are contemplating which way to go, a local man comes walking down the road out of nowhere, smiling and we communicate by pointing to the GPS and the destination town.  He points to the right and happily describes the directions in Bulgarian, we just node our heads not understanding a word.  Then we indicate by saying Benzin that we are low on gasoline and he takes a stone and writes onto the road 67km. Somehow we always seem to be able to communicate.  Dense green, lush forest engulfs us, as the road twists it way through the mountains to the coast line. Tsarevo, a small sea side town catering to the local Bulgarian tourists, is just getting alive for the summer season.  We pull up to a small gas station with a couple of pumps, unsure of what is what.  All we could read was 95, which we assumed was unleaded and 95 Octane.  Here we realize that the Euro is not yet in place and as I wait at the gas station, Mike runs into town and exchanges some Euro into Bulgarian Leva.  The gas is finally cheaper again at 1.85 leva (or $1.25CDN)/liter. From Tsarevo we follow the coastal highway to Sozopol along the Black Sea. Approx. 4km south of Sozopol a few km long beach is lined with campgrounds. Camping is 8.70 leva (or $6.00CDN) a night. 

June 28, 2006.  The beach and the Black Sea looked too inviting to pass up a swim.  The sand is soft and the water clear and warm.  Actually the warmest water we have had on this trip.  After a shower and relaxing breakfast beside the tent, we pack up and ride from Sozopol, past Burgas to Nesebar.  Nesebar is a UNESCO World Heritage site and sits on a small rocky isthmus.  It is overrun by tourists, but somehow still keeps its charm.  The museum is worth a visit, as it explains the importance of Nesebar, dating the settlement back to 3000BC, when Thracians settled Mesembria here.  In the lower level of the museum some incredible preserved paintings of Jesus and the Virgin Mary dating to the 14th century AD.  Entering ancient Nesebar through the old gates, it is said that it once was home to 80 churches.  We visited only a few churches all built between 6th and 14^th century AD.  Making the loop through town, our first stop is the St. John Aliturgetos Church, a water facing, earthquake-battered church, only the outer shell is still standing. The St. Stefan Church stands diagonal from the St. John Aliturgetos Church and admission is charged per person and for the camera.  The medieval murals are incredible inside the church and worth a few levas.  The Pantrokrator Church, a 14th century church stands proud in the centre of the old gate entrance.  Walking past the St. Spa's Church, we come upon the towering frame of the 6th century Basilica in the towns historic centre.  On our way out we run into a couple of German bikers Roland and Benedict, who flag us down as they see us with all our gear on and roasting in the heat.  Leaving the Black Sea behind us, we make our way inland over Aitos, passing fields and fields of sunflowers and turn at Sliven and head north-west.  Finding the turn-off wasn't that easy, as all the roads looked like small farm roads.  But eventually the GPS was pointing us into the right direction.  The road was incredible, very narrow since both sides were overgrown by greenery.  Every corner was a total blind corner.  After about 1 hour of riding we realize that we are about 2.5km off the GPS track, getting just a bit concerned, since the only people we meet are in hay-loaded carriages pulled by a horse. Then out of nowhere a road sign, indicating 36km to highway 56 and here we thought we were actually all along on highway 56.  We pass through several small villages and see some incredible things, that is hard to capture in words and impossible to stop and take a picture.  Entering Bulgaria feels like stepping back 50 years in time.  The fields are still worked by manual labour and hay and wheat are transported by wooden carriages and horse.  One thinks that this only occurs in these remote villages in the mountains, but it is all over Bulgaria.  There is even road signage for the horse carriages.  Then on the other hand there is the Black Sea coast with its new hotels and hip young crowd.  Such a contrast, and so unexpected.  There is evidence of the old eastern block everywhere, especially in the smaller remote towns.  Buildings are in total decay, Lada's and Trabits are still driven.  Children are playing on the roads and the old people are sitting in front of there house, hanging out.  Emotionally I remember the time I grew up in Germany, very similar to the generation who is growing up now in Bulgaria.  I want to tell them to enjoy the freedom and care freeness, because as the country moves forward into the EU, these wonderful places will disappear over time.  In Elena, we fuel up and get to Veliko Tarnovo in the early evening.  This medieval capital sits above a sharp S-shaped gorge.  Somehow we end up in front of the Hotel Etar.  At 60 Leva it's a bit pricy for our budget.  A lady approaches us and leads us to her pension.  It is very clean and has a shared bathroom and terrace. Her name is Margarita and she runs it privately, the cost was 30 Leva ($21.00CDN)/night.  It is located at 5”Hristo Smirnenski” Street, just up the hill from the main street.  We have a late night supper on Vasil Levski Street, which consisted of a couple of Bulgarian Beer and two large Pizza's for 25 Leva ($17CDN) including tip.  As we return to our room, Margarita had left us some fresh sugared raspberries.

June 29, 2006.  Leaving all our gear at the pension, we ride to the Tsarevets Fortress, only a couple of kilometers away.  The fortress sits high above a hill, with a gorge surrounding its three sides and the Yantra River winding its way around it.  The Thracians, Romans and Byzantines all had occupied this site at one time.  The triangular high-walled fortress houses the remains of 400 houses and 18 churches.  Most of them dating back to the 5th and 12th century.  We enter through the main gate and follow the left wall past a watch tower to the execution rock.  Once upon a time the accused were pushed off the execution rock into the deep gorge below.  We climb up the ruined Royal Palace and get an excellent view of the town of Veliko Tarnovo, where houses cling to the sides of the gorge and their images are reflected in the Yantra River below.  It seemed we had picked the hottest day of the year to take this excursion.  The humidity was at an all time high and the temperature reaching upper 30 Degree Celsius.  We were both soaked by the time we returned to the pension.  By noon we left Veliko Tarnovo behind us and headed for the Dryanovo Monastery.  Originating in the 12th century, the monastery lies tucked in lush green trees, with a gushing river flowing past it, at the base of a top heavy cliff. A walking path leads past a few waterfalls to the Bacho Koro cave.  Just before reaching the cave the humidity finally got the upper hand and the skies opened up for about an hour as the thunderstorm past over us.  Most tourists were scared off by the rain and as we arrive at the cave, we are allowed inside without escort.   Late afternoon we make our way over Mt Stoletov (1326m) and Shipka Pass.  At the top of Shipka Pass is a six-story Freedom Monument to commemorate an important Russian-Turkish battle in 1877.  The road descending into Kazanlak is covered in pot-holes and makes for an interesting obstacle course.  In Kazanlak, we try finding without success the Thracian Tomb (also indicated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site c/w GPS coordinates).  After aimlessly wondering the streets, we decide to instead fill our bellies with some yummy cake at the town square.  Heading east again, we make our way to Koprivshititsa.  A small village in the mountains, home to hundreds of well preserved traditional houses.  Six of Koprivshititsa's traditional homes are museums.  The town itself reminds us of a town in Austria or Switzerland.  With no campground in sight we check into the Hotel Kalina (50 leva or $35.00CDN/night including breakfast).  It is one of the nicest places we have stayed on this trip and very well taken care of.  We stay in a traditional room and bring the bikes into the yard through an old wooden gate. It was definitely a treat to stay here.  For supper we end up at a local pub and run into a couple from Australia (Ross & Ruby).  He is a project manager and currently working at refurbishing a near by Gold mine and eventually expand it.  We heard some interesting stories about government corruptness in Bulgaria and the endless paperwork to get a project underway.  He estimates that it will take him 5 years in Bulgaria to start up the expansion of the Gold mine.

June 30, 2006.  After a relaxing breakfast at the Hotel Kalina, we take a stroll through town and its narrow cobble stone streets.  In the process we visit the six traditional home museums.  The Karavelov House, is located directly beside the Hotel Kalina and is a three-section house where the brothers Karavelov grew up.  One brother, Lyuto, ran a revolutionary press and the other brother, Petko, was an early post-independence politician.  The Oskelov House, home of a 19th Century tax collector, was many rooms displaying the day to day activities during this period.  The outside of this home is especially nice.  Koprivshititsa is a place were one can spend a few days relaxing and hanging out with the locals.  The pace of life seems to slow down.  By noon we are on the road again and making our way through windy mountain ranges.  Just before Panagyurishte an old open pit mine comes into view and a waterfall makes it way into the pit, now filled with fresh water.  The road is covered with pot holes.  At Pazardzhik, we get lost once again trying to find our turn-off to Velingrad.  Asking locals in small villages eventually leads us to the right road, which follows the old railway and the windy river, passing through the Rila Mountains and Pirin Mountains.  At Bansko we see snow covered mountains.  Back on the main highway 1 going north, we turn at Rila and twist our way on good asphalt to the Rila Monastery.  Arriving at 7pm on a Friday night, the monks had just entered the Nativity Church for a 3 plus hour worship. Originally we had planned to stay at the Monastery simple rooms, but after waiting until 10pm and no sign of any monk appearing at the reception we wild camped in a closed down campground, which had seen better days once upon a time.  But during the 3 hours we explored Rila Monastery, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Originally built in 927, and destroyed in 1833 by fire, the oldest building remaining from the 14th century is the 23 stone Hrelyu Tower.  It seems that it was a special ceremony that took place in the Nativity Church, since we were privileged to see the bells rung by hand and the clock reset.  The Nativity Church, built in the 1830's, contains 1200 magnificent murals.  Even the outside walls of the entrance are covered with murals and are truly incredible.

July 01, 2006.  We stop for a quick look at the inside of the Nativity Church, since the parking lot and the inside of the monastery is swarming with 100's of tourists and worshippers.  It is time to say good-bye to Bulgaria.  We head to the Delcevo border crossing and receive our exit stamp from Bulgaria.  Arriving at the Macedonian border, we are told that Canadians need a $12US/person Visa for Macedonia, which CAN NOT be issued at the border, but has to be acquired via the consulate prior to arrival.  Oops, we missed that totally.  Not that we would have been able to get it prior to coming anyway since we had been on the road for 4 1/2 months.  It was too bad, that we had to give it a miss.  Visa's are only required for Canadians, South Africans and New Zealanders. So, we had to reenter Bulgaria again, and this time buy a 1-month motorcycle insurance for Bulgaria (15 Euro), even through we were going to be leaving the country again in a couple hours.  Not really prepared in our routing or research for Greece, we head for the Promahonas border crossing.  Here again we get stamped out of the country and enter Greece.  Our easiest border crossing yet.