Botswana Trip Journal from Jan. 31 to Feb. 04, 2008

Last updated Mar. 15, 2008. To return to Botswana Pictures.

Country: Botswana

Duration: Jan. 31 to Feb. 04, 2008

Distance Traveled in the Country: Approx. 1200km on the motorcycles.

Most Memorable Impressions:

We remember riding kilometers of straight flat tarred roads, the scenery did not change much from when we entered the country (at Mohembo, Namibia) to when we exited Botswana (at Martin's Drift, South Africa).  We came to experience the Okavango Delta via a Mokoro (wooden dug-out canoe) trip, the only way to see the 15,000 sq-km maze of lagoons, channels and islands.  We stuck to the northern part of Botswana and will be back another time to explore the south.

Our Favourite:

-  Okavango Delta

Fuel Cost: 5.85 Pula/litre ($0.95CDN/litre) for Unleaded Fuel.

Accommodations: Camped (3) nights for 40 Pula to 100 Pula/night ($6.50CDN to $16.00CDN/night).

Exchange Rate: 6.2 Pula = $1.00CDN

Border Formality Costs: Botswana Visa = Free for Canadians

Motorcycle Customs = Free with Carnet de Passage, plus carbon tax of $10.00US/motorcycle.

Jan. 31, 2008.  We entered Botswana from Namibia at the Mohembo Border Post.   The immigration officials were very friendly.  At customs we had to sign in the motorcycles and pay the carbon/road tax of $10.00US/motorcycle.  It started to rain as we left the border post and headed south. In Sepupa we pulled into town looking for a bank.  There was not much for official buildings, mostly straw/mud huts.  We continue south hoping for a bigger town.  At the Tsodilo Hills sign turn off we stop to discuss if we should visit the World Heritage Site.  The sign indicates 40km, the rain heavy at times and the road sandy ahead of us.  40km could mean (4) to (5) hours on the motorcycle in the sand.  There has been numerous times on this trip where we would look at each other and say "I guess will have to come back in the Toyota Land Cruiser".  We already know that we will be returning to Africa to visit all the places we had to miss due to time or inaccessibility by the motorcycle. In Gumare we hit the first gas station and bank machine.  The Barclays Bank is all over southern Africa, our debit card has worked in the ATM machines in every location.  Most other banks only take the Visa card for cash withdrawals.  Fuel is relatively cheap in Botswana, a welcome change at $0.95CDN/litre.  Maun, the main hub where all the tours are organized from for the Okavango Delta, is a buzzing town, with large grocery stores, expensive slow internet cafe's and lots of traffic.  We head for the Sedia Hotel located 11km north-east of town.  The rain had stopped a hundred kilometers earlier and the sky was getting bluer, a welcome sight.  The camping area behind the Sedia Hotel was deserted and we had the pick of a nice site under the trees.  Camping is only 40.00 Pula/night ($6.50CDN/night) and the facilities are clean with hot showers.  The restaurant/bar is located beside a large swimming pool with comfortable lawn chairs. An added bonus is that on the same premises the Afro-Trek Tour company is located. We arrive too late in the day to inquire about any tours available into the Okavango Delta.

Feb. 01. 2008.  We awake to clear blue sky.  Talking to the staff they inform us that today has been the first nice day without rain in a while.  Our first goal is to arrange a Mokoro Trip (Dug-out Canoe) in the Okavango Delta.  The Okavango Delta, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is unique in that the Okavango River originating from Angola winds its way through northern strip of Namibia into Botswana where it then spreads out into a large Delta.  The difference of this Delta compared to others like the Nigeria Delta and McKenzie Delta is that the Okavango Delta is the largest inland delta in the world.  The water is lost in the desert over a vast 15,000 sq-km maze of lagoons, channels and islands.  The best way to see this phenomenon up close is via traditional Mokoro.  On offer are one (1) to four (4) day trips into the Delta including bush camping.  As we had done a lot of bush camping over the last five (5) months we were mainly interested in experiencing the Delta in the wooden dug-out canoe.  The one (1) day trip for two (2) people was $290US and included pick up from the Campsite, transport to the canoe launching location, park fees, visit to the local village, lunch, bush walk and around (4) hours in the canoe with the poler. They took visa with a 3% surcharge.  We were set for the next day.  The remainder of this beautiful day we relaxed in the shade around the pool.

Feb. 02, 2008.  We had to be ready for 7:15am pick-up and by 7:30am we inquired at the reception of the whereabouts of our pick-up.  By 8am we were informed that they had been unable to secure the park permit yesterday and that they would be here in 5 minutes.  8:20am our driver finally arrived and gave us another story of events that the original driver had to go to the hospital.  Okay at least they had not forgotten about us.  The drive was only one (1) hour in a topless pick-up truck.  The road followed a single sand track into the park.  En-route we pick up other locals for a free ride.  There is no mini bus schedule for this area and locals rely on hitching a ride with mostly tour companies.  As we sign in at the park entrance, the lady asks us if we are scared.  We reply "No" and I think why should we be scared.  In the park the road gets rougher as we have to pass through large water holes.  At the canoe launching location, we are introduced to our Poler, Benny and he takes us to the village where he picks up some lunch for himself.  He speaks English well and is full of great information.  He is able to read animal foot prints and with the recent rains it is easy to identify when the animals had been through.  There is a hippo pool right outside the village.  The village is separated from the park by a fence, which also keeps the hippo's out.  Inside the village, Benny tells us that when you turn 18 years old you are allowed to build your own straw/mud house and the land is free.  The material used for the straw/mud houses is of course from the surrounding nature.  The wooden dug-out canoe is hewn from ebony or sausage tree log.  The bottom is covered in straw.  The older the canoe, the more it leaks, therefore wet bum for sure.  Loaded with a cooler of goodies, us sitting at the front and Benny our poler standing at the rear, we begin our adventure.  The water was crystal clear, our path only a couple of meters wide as we push through the high grass.  An abundance of animals live in the Okavango Delta and the waters are home to crocodiles and hippos.  It is weird to be this close to the water and to be able to see right to the bottom of the water.  I told myself to stay calm in case of spotting a crocodile.  We had been assured that the canoe is stable.  The water lilies covered large areas.  It was very quite and peaceful to glide through the water.  The only sound was the birds chirping and the canoe rustling against the grass or water leaves.  Non poisonous fogs and spiders make their home in the long grass and we were fortunate to see a white/black spotted fog. After one (1) hour we left the main channel and got into the thick of the grassland.  It is amazing how the poler can find his way, as we were totally lost.  Another hour passes and we anchor on an island for a 1 1/2 hr bush walk.  Benny was on a mission to show us some animals, the mid day sun was beating down on us and we were walking the military walk through the bush.  Most interesting was Benny's explanation about Elephant droppings.  He actually picked up the dropping to show us the content.  One can tell the age based on what can be found in the droppings.  The older the elephants get the more their teeth are worn and then the droppings have less digested tree branches.  The local bushmen also use Elephant droppings to bath in before hunting.  This way other animals are fooled into thinking that the human being is an Elephant.  We had seen our fair share of animals on this trip and to see them now was not that important.  We did encounter a couple of Giraffes on our walk with Benny.  After lunch it was back into the canoe and another two (2) hours of peaceful gliding through the water.  With a full tummy I was at risk at being too relaxed and falling asleep.  Half way back Benny tells us to stand up and we are able to see a large herd of Elephants marching not far from us. Back on mainland our driver awaits and we return to the Sedia Camp late afternoon.     

Feb. 03, 2008.  Leaving early in the morning we ride all day until almost sun set from Maun to Palapye (650km).  En-route we pass through the Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve and Nxai Pan National Park.  Here we have an encounter with a lone large Elephant.  As we stop on the side of the road the Elephant comes charging at Mike.  It is all on Helmet Video Camera.  Quite scary, especially as I had turned of the motorcycle and would have been unable to get out of the way in time.  Mike was on the gas, but told me he was not scared.  I was.  Botswana, as Zambia and Malawi, had received its fair share of rain in the last month and the roads through the parks were half under water.  The Makgadikgadi Pans and Nxai Pan National Park are known for their large salt flats.  The roads off the main highway are all sand and not just a little bit of sand, but deep powdery sand.  The motorcycles just do not do well in these conditions.  Therefore we were a bit surprised that all the way through the Pans the surrounding landscape was very green.  Where were the salt flats?  We figured that due to all the rain that grass is actually growing on the flats or maybe the salt flats were along way from the road.  A bit disappointed we continue to Nata and then turn southwards.  Here we had our first encounter with the law.  We averaged about 80km/hr in central Africa, therefore we do not speed a lot.  Mike received a ticket for going a 102km/hr in an 80km/hr zone.  This was the first speed trap we had seen since the beginning of our trip five (5) months ago.  The laser gun took us by surprise.  We were recorded during passing another vehicle.  The laser gun even had a picture of Mike in the passing lane.  There was just a slight problem.  As we knew we were checking out of Botswana early the next morning, we had only 50Pula ($8.00CDN) on us.  The ticket was 120Pula ($20.00CDN) to be paid in cash right there and then.  Mike told the officer his dilemma and he said how much do you have? After Mike told him 50Pula, he just said go and get it.  That was that, and we were happily back on the road.  In Palapye we hit the bank to get some small amount of cash to get us through to the next morning.  A nice campground is located on the outskirts of Palapye.  The Itumela campground is a good spot for the night after or before the border crossing at Martin's Drift.  The facilities are very nice and it comes with a swimming pool and kitchen to cook your own meals.  The price tag was 100.00 Pula/night ($16.00CDN/night).  It might get crowded as it is used by Overland Trucks, but we were fortunate to have the complete campground to ourselves.

Feb. 04, 2008.  After one last fuel stop we reach the border post at Martin's Drift. The border formalities were a breeze.  Once checked out of the country we proceed to the South African Border Post.

Up