Albania Trip Journal from July 15 to 19, 2006

Last updated August 18, 2006.  To proceed to the Albania Pictures.

Country: Albania

Duration: July 15 to 19, 2006

Distance Traveled in the Country:  ~ 500 km

Memorable Impressions of the Country:  Often forgotten the country of Albania, an experience we would have clearly and dearly regretted if missed on our journey.  The guidebook indicates "the last frontier only for the adventurous".  Yes, it is all of it.  A very poor country surrounded by the much better off EU countries.  It is still rebuilding from the fall of communism.  We will remember Albania for its friendly and helpful people, its amazing beaches and twisty, potholed, single lane wide roads and unfortunately the garbage.  Southern Albania will always have a special place in our memories.  

Gasoline Cost: approx. $1.50CDN/litre for 95 Octane

Hotel Cost:  average $28.00CDN/night.

Food & Drink Cost: Eating out is quite cheap.  $10CDN including a large pizza, two cola light and tip. 

Exchange Rate: 100 Leke = $1.10CDN

July 15, 2006.  We enter Albania from Greece at Kakavija.  The process takes about half an hour as we get our passport stamped and pay 10 Euro for entry tax per person.  Minutes into Albania we see hundreds of small mushroom shaped bunkers scattered through the fields.  These small concrete domes with their rectangular slits, were built between 1950 to 1985 and a total of 700,000 are in the most unexpected places, like the sandy beach. Only 11km from the border we turn west at Jorgucat and wind our way up on a single lane road with two way traffic and guard rails made out of white concrete.  Every so often a vehicle meets us on a corner and scares the crap out of us.  No room for any maneuvering.  At Muzine we almost miss our turn as the main road looks more like a farm road leading nowhere.  The road disintegrates to potholes after potholes and is ever so twisty that we are down to 30km/hr. Civilization or any other traffic has almost stopped as we summit and head down into Delvine.  Delvine is the first Albanian town we visit and as we enter on a bumpy dirt road the garbage in the ditches and on the roads and the decay of the houses sets us back.  We didn't expect this from a country in Europe.  Therefore it is a surprise to have the ATM accept our debit card.  From Delvine we make our way to Sarande located on the Ionian Sea.  Its houses descend from the hillsides into the Ionion Sea and locals walk along the horseshoe-shaped bay.  The area boasts around 290 sunny days a year.  Heading south along the Butrint Lake and finally reaching the Ancient site of Butrint.  Here we either take a ferry over to the other side or return to the previous village Ksamili.  The beaches and small islands at Ksamili lure as back. There are no camping facilities.  The Adriani Hotel with an amazing view of the water cost us 25 Euro ($35CDN) for the first night without air conditioning and we decide to stay another night with air conditioning for 30 Euro ($42CDN).  The rooms are spotless and even have a balcony, fridge and TV.  The owners make room in there garage to park our motorcycles.  People seem to be very interested in the motorcycles and we get a lot of stares.  This far south in Albania we haven't met any other foreign tourists.

July 16, 2006.  We decide to stay another night as the facilities are excellent and cheap.  It gives us the opportunity to catch up on the journal and photos.   I wander over to the Super Market and check out Albanian goodies.  It always gives us a good indication of how much everything costs.  I even find Venus shaving blades for 670 Leke ($7.50CDN). For lunch and supper we visit the Pizza place on the beach.  English is not spoken much in this area, but the waiter brings out each condiment to show us and we are able to get a great pizza for only 500 Leke ($5.50CDN).  Albanian Tirana beer is cheap as well at 100 Leke ($1.10CDN) per bottle.  

July 17, 2006.  Before checking out of the hotel, we ride to the ancient site of Butrint (700 Leke or $8.00CDN admission/person).  It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992.  Due to its remote location it doesn't get a lot of tourists.  With the entrance fee we receive a brochure of the national park and the archeological site in English. There has been evidence of a settlement dating back as far as the 8th Century BC, but Butrints' first substantial settlement was by the Greeks in 6th Century BC.  The town of Butrint took its usual path in history, originally built by the Greeks, then occupied by the Romans and later taken over by the Ottomans. Each ruler leaving its mark on the fortified town.  Around the 5th Century BC Butrint had become a fortified trading post and when the Romans took over in 167 BC the town expanded to the plains beyond the water channel via a bridge and large aqueduct.  Unfortunately the aqueduct and bridge are long gone.  In 1926 an Italian archeologist made it his mission to uncover the ruins of Brutrint.  We were able to walk along a path and see the 4th Century BC sanctuary dedicated to healing god, Asclepius, the 3rd Century BC Theatre, remains of the Roman Bath-House (2nd Century AD), the Agora and gymnasium.  Most impressive was the early 6th Century baptistery with mosaic floor representing Christian salvation.  Continuing on the path we enter the ruins of the Great Basilica dating to 6th Century AD. At the far end is the Lake Gate from the Hellenistic time and then the Lion Gate. The acropolis now houses a castle built under the Ottoman ruling.  It has been restored to exhibit a fine Museum and the Venetian tower shows pictures of the 1926 excavation, as well as a documentary film about the history of the site starting with the excavation, a visit of former Russian leader Khrushchev and later Chinese leader Mow.  It was not in English, but nevertheless interesting.  It showed a much richer Albania under Communist ruling.  After 3 1/2 hours of wandering around the site, we return to our hotel and check out. Making our way north again past Saranda, the road deteriorates and gets narrower and twistier.  In addition, we hit the mid afternoon heat of the day.  Therefore it didn't take much convincing to call it a day when we came around a mountain pass and saw the perfect beach stretch out before us.  With no town close by, we are about 20 km south of Borsh.  The only accommodations are the mushroom shaped bunkers that litter the area, some buildings that had seen better days and the Komplik Turistik, renting out Kabinas. We paid 20 Euro/night and got the deluxe cabin, situated directly over the rushing river.  The bathroom was separate, but the rooms spotless and came with a nice balcony c/w chairs and table.  Our hosts were unbelievably friendly and helpful.  It felt like being home with Mom.  We believe they do not see foreign tourists at this remote spot and they were very exciting to have us.  Since none of the people present could speak English they called in the Cousin an hour away, RD, who goes to the International School in Tirana.  In addition we were supplied with a fresh cut watermelon and other fruit dishes kept on coming.  After dropping off our gear in the room we changed into our swimming gear and were off to the sandy white beach.  The perfect way to cool off.  The beach stretched for approx. 2km with maybe 30 people enjoying paradise.  We stroll along the length of it and watch a perfect sun set over the Ionian Sea.

July 18, 2006.  We are actually on the road by 6:30am, the road deteriorates to a point that can not be put into words unless experienced in person.  We are doing about 20 to 30km in an hour.  The villages we pass are the worst as potholes are covered in water and whole cars can disappear in them.  Laughing, shaking our heads in disbelieve, we are having the time of our lives.  The road between Himara and Dhermi is on a high plateau and as the mountains plunge into the sea, white beaches stretch for miles.  From the distance we see the road zig-zagging up the Llogaraja Pass over a 1000m high.  The sky is looking dark as black thunderous clouds start to build at the summit.  Then out of the blue new pavement and a centerline. What is up with that?  The view from the top is spectacular.  From here the road started to improve and we actually made it to Vlora by 11am for some 5 Euro Pizza for breakfast.  Continuing north along the coast over Lushnja, Kavaja past Durres to Kruja.  Some very dusty construction with loose gravel took us by surprise, but the beemers master it without problem.  Kruja is about 7km off the main road under construction and winds its way from the fields below into the grey mountains.  The castle is sits on its own rocky cliff overlooking the town.  The remaining walls surround the old settlement, which is still occupied to this day.  On the way to the castle we pass the statue of Skanderbeg on a horse, waving his sword.  Inside the walled castle is the Skanderbeg Museum (200 Leke or $2.20CDN admission/person).  Skanderbeg is a national hero who fought against the Turks in 1443 to 1468.  He defeated the Ottoman army several times.  The Albanian flag shows an eagle or falcon which derived from this period. The museum itself is done well, but little English labeling.  From Kruja we ride to Shkodra the last major town before entering Montenegro.  The first hotel we stop at quotes us 15 Euro per night and it has a gates/fenced off parking area for the motorcycles.  Located on the main road into Shkodra and the south end of Lake Shkodra.  We rode approx. 300 kms and it took us all day.  Mike walks into town to get something to eat.  As an hour goes by, he returns with a couple of hamburgers and four (4) orange pops.  Walking for miles all restaurants only served drinks.  Finally he found a restaurant owner he could communicate with and he sent his waiter out into town to get hamburgers for Mike and bought him a pop on the house.  This was another example of the helpfulness and friendliness of Albanian people.  We have found the poorer the country the friendlier and more helpful the people.  It is true, people make the country what it is. Albania has reminded us a lot of the time we traveled through southern Mexico. 

July 19, 2006.  The view from our balcony is great, the lake mirrors the houses and fishermen are out in the calm water.  Mike gets the camera out and plays with the morning light.  It is about 6 am in the morning and horse carriages are continuously passing past the hotel.  It is neat to hear the horse shoes clopping on the road.  These are the sounds and memories that will stay with you forever. Packed up, it took us a good half an hour to make our way through the town of Shkodra as we maneuver through one pothole/water crossing after another.  Who needs to go into the country for off-roading, it all can be found just outside your house in these towns.  The road between Shkodra to the Han I Hotit border crossing is single lane wide and probably paved 50 years ago.  We wonder a few times if we are on the right road.  But then, there is the border crossing.  We pay 12 Euro for vehicle departure tax and get our exit stamp.  Albania was another great country with amazing people.